Wine – Page 18 – Appetite for Wine

Canada, Gin Thuya, Montmorency Falls, Quebec City, Sainte-Anne, Wine

Québec City, Week 2

June 20, 2016 Appetite for Wine

Another fantastic week in and around Québec City! We did a lot more touristy stuff this week, and learned a great deal about the history of the city and region. I have been fascinated by the parallel history between Québec and the American colonies, which include many overlapping historical figures. Growing up and going to school in the U.S., I didn’t receive the Canadian version! Canadian history is just as colorful as that in the U.S., which fierce military battles and political upheaval. Yet in many ways, it is much more complex, with regime changes yet lasting influences, as well as peaceful, diplomatic maneuvering. Whereas the U.S. fought and won its independence with tremendous loss of life, Canada’s independence, albeit nearly 100 years later and still as part of the British Commonwealth, was achieved in 1867 without a shot being fired. Next year, Canada celebrates her 150^th birthday. Still, it wasn’t until 1931 that Canada achieved its own sovereignty, and amazingly, Canada didn’t adopt its first constitution until 1982! Much of Canada’s character as a nation has come about because of social evolution, not revolution.

Our excursions this week included a walking tour of the Old City, a bus tour to nearby Montmorency Falls and the Basilica du Sainte-Anne-de-Beuapré, and a Sunday morning horse-drawn carriage ride around the city. Our walking tour guide, Michael, as Irish as they come, was informative and entertaining. He showed us sights we had been overlooking for more than a week! Montmorency Falls is breathtaking. It falls some 275 feet, roughly 100 feet higher than Niagara Falls. The bus ride included a brief drive to the île d’Orleans, an agricultural island in the Saint Lawrence River just outside Québec City. Many of the local wineries are situated here, but unfortunately, this wasn’t the nature of this bus trip! On to the Basilica of Saint-Anne, who was the Virgin Mary’s mother – Jesus’ grandmother. At this magnificent church, many people have reported miraculous healings over the years. Finally we enjoyed our carriage ride with Danny, our driver, and the ever trustworthy steed, Freddie. Again, we saw things we’d been walking past without noticing. It was a charming and relaxing way to spend our Sunday morning.

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Other points of interest this week: a visit to J.A. Moisan, the oldest continuously operating grocery store in North America. They’ve been supplying provisions here since 1871! Across the street is the Musée du Chocolat. It’s small, but admission is free, and who doesn’t love a museum about chocolate?! We also enjoyed many fantastic meals, and the wine to go with them! In addition, I found a delicious, Québécois gin. Here’s what I thought of the week’s libations.

Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet Les Pins de Camille 2015

Beautiful golden color. Aromas of Meyer lemon and grapefruit. Flavors of lemon, grapefruit, and a hint of tangerine. The acidity is bright and lively. When cold, it starts fairly light body, but as it warms it develops a richer feel. Everyone says to pair this with fish, but it was delightful with our lemon-rosemary chicken.

4.5 stars (92-94 points)

SAQ Store, $14.50 CAD (approx. $11.24 USD)

Ravenswood Vintners Blend Old Vine Zinfandel 2013

Sometimes when you’re on holiday, you just want familiar. Something that tastes like home. For us, Zinfandel is comfort food. Here in Quebec, the SAQ store doesn’t have a big selection of Cali Zinfandel, but there is was: Ravenswood. Ubiquitous in NorCal restaurants.

Brick red color. Inviting aromas of blackberry and spice. Flavors of blackberry, cherry, fig, clove, and black pepper. Medium body, and smooth tannins. Simple, but comfort food. Basic, but just what we needed!

3.5 stars (85-87 points)

SAQ Store, $18.50 CAD (approx. $14.37 USD – yes, I know that’s almost double what I’d pay in the states, but you can’t put a price on your wife’s happiness.)

Ktima Foundi Xinomavro Dry Red 2013

Recommended by our server to pair with black pudding. Excellent pick! Ruby red with aromas and flavors of raspberry, red currant, and just a bit of oak. Fruit forward but dry, with very mild tannins and light acidity. Smooth drinking and complemented the rich flavor of the dish.

4.0 stars (88-91 points)

Restaurant L’Echaudé, $12 CAD per glass (approx. $9.37 USD)

Gin Thuya, Dry Gin, Distillerie Fils du Roy, Inc.

I like to try local products when I travel. I asked a sales associate for some assistance in finding a good, local gin suitable for a G&T or a Gin Rickey. This was one of two he immediately recommended. I’m a little choosey with my gin, so I asked about the style and flavor. He said Gin Thuya is definitely a dry gin with a juniper base, but beyond that it has some floral and savory notes. He said, in his French accent (we’re in French-Canada after all) that there isn’t really a word he can think of to translate from French. The best he could say is that it tastes like the seashore. Well, who doesn’t love a day at the seashore? Sold.

You know what, he’s right. It’s hard to describe the flavor. Almost a mild umami/earthy taste, but with a slight saline quality. Seashore! Quite delicious and refreshing, especially with a squirt of lemon and topped with tonic water. A perfect quaff on a hot Québec afternoon!

The producer’s website, translated via Google, has this to say:

“Gin Thuya is a gin that is not shy. Juniper is the dominant ingredient and the second ingredient in importance is coriander. If you mix a volume of water against a volume of gin, you are sure to appreciate the flavor.
Gin Thuya earned a double gold medal at the “San Francisco World Spirits Competition” in March 2013. This is the highest honor available on the planet is currently in the industry. Gin Thuya recently won a gold medal at the “International Spirits Challenge” in London UK “

The SAQ website describes it this way:

“Made entirely with natural ingredients, Thuya gin is flavoured with young cedar shoots freshly harvested in Saint-Arsène, Quebec. First distillery in Acadia, Distillerie Fils du Roy uses production methods that result in a perfectly balanced gin with fully preserved aromas. Savour it with a splash of water or in a wide variety of cocktails.”

4.0 stars (88-91 points)

SAQ Store, $39.25 CAD (approx. $30.66 USD)

During week 3 our daughter and grandson will be joining us! More fun awaits!

Canada, Quebec City, Travel, Wine

Québec City, Week 1

June 14, 2016 Appetite for Wine

Our first week in Ville de Québec has drawn to a close. Fortunately, we still have a few more weeks to enjoy this enchanting city! There is so much to see and do here, and it is very interesting learning about North American history from both a Canadian and a French perspective. The food has been outstanding! We’ve saved money by hitting the Super Marché for groceries and dining in for many meals, but we’ve enjoyed a number of fine restaurant meals, as well. I’ve been surprised by the culinary diversity. Beyond the expected French cuisine, there are several Irish pubs, Italian Ristorantes, Chinese, Greek, and even a few Mexican cantinas. Our first full day here, we stopped for lunch at one of the Irish pubs, were I had an Irish-Canadian fusion of a pulled-pork sandwich over poutine, all smothered with a whiskey gravy. It was decadently delicious! Another day I had the best French onion soup I’ve ever tasted – savory and light; not over-salted like so many I’ve had in the U.S. Perhaps the topper of the week, however, was last night’s Duck Confit Burger! Yum! Tender chunks of duck, with shredded pickled beets, topped with a soft poppy seed bun, with an enormous side of fries. It’s all I’d hoped it would be!

Pulled Pork Poutine with Whiskey Gravy

French Onion Soup

The Famous Duck Confit Burger!

After a bit of a rocky start in the wine department, we enjoyed a Québécois wine that I found at the local farmer’s market, as well as some amazing ice wines and ciders. I also braved a sample of a locally produced tomato wine. Yes, tomato wine. In addition, between restaurants and the SAQ store down the street, we’ve taken advantage of the huge selection of fine French wines. Not unlike many states in the U.S., wine and liquor sales in Québec are regulated by the government liquor board. Although they do sell wine in grocery stores, frankly it’s not anything you want to drink. For the good stuff, you must head to the local SAQ (Société des alcools du Québec) store. Nevertheless, they do have a wide selection, and with the favorable U.S. exchange rate, the prices are pretty reasonable. I reviewed the Québec red wine in my earlier post, Destination: Québec City. Here’s what else we drank during Québec City, Week 1:

Willm Alsace Réserve Pinot Gris 2015

Rich, golden color in the glass. There are aromas and flavors of honeysuckle, ripe apricot and peach, and a hint of elderflower on the finish. Light and tasty, with mild acidity making it a great evening sipper.

Paired well with dinner of Roasted Chicken Thighs and Gold Potatoes.

4.0 Stars (88-91 points)

SAQ Store, $17.80 CAD (approx. $13.93 USD)

Château Eugénie Chateau Eugenie Tradition Cahors 2012

Dry and medium bodied. Raspberry and red currant, with fresh acidity. Finish is red fruit with a hint of licorice spice. Great with my Croque Monsieur and my wife’s Burger la Parisian.

4.5 Stars (92-94 points)

Chez Jules, $20 CAD for a 375 ml carafe (approx. $15.58 USD)

Albert Bichot Chablis 2014

Light straw color. Initial aromas of green apple and pineapple. Very well balanced, with medium mouthfeel and bright acidity. No one flavor dominates, but is a blend of pineapple, white grapefruit, lemon, and pear. These flavors linger with a zesty and invigorating finish.

A nice complement to a ground turkey casserole and green salad.

4.0 Stars (88-91 points)

SAQ Store, $22.50 CAD (approx.. $17.60 USD)

Note: This was actually my first Chablis. We are not big Chardonnay fans, but we have recently been enjoying unoaked Chardonnay, in the Chablis style. We are now big fans of Chablis!

Vignoble Le Nordet Vendanges Oubliées En Rosé 2012

Ice Wine from a Québec producer. Delightful! Rich dessert wine with ample sweetness, and light raspberry and strawberry notes. Beautiful pink color, and pleasant mouthfeel.

4.0 Stars (88-91 points)

Marché Du Vieux-Port Farmer’s Market, $29 CAD for a 200 ml bottle (approx. $22.60 USD)

Domaine de la Bergerie Yves Guégniard La Cerisaie 2014 (Anjou)

Deep purple color. Black currant and blackberry, with woody notes. Quite dry, with good acidity for food pairing. Smoky-berry finish. A very nice accompaniment to my duck confit burger.

3.5 Stars (85-87 points)

Chez Victor, $9.75 CAD per glass (approx. $7.60 USD)

And finally, the moment you’ve been waiting for! Tomato Wine!

Omerto Vin Apéritif de Tomate

Tomato wine. Yup. Wine made from tomatoes. Very much like sake in that it is bone dry and has a neutral flavor, with just a hint of sweetness and vegetal notes. 16% ABV. This was drier Sec style. They also make a Demi-Sec, as well as one aged in acacia barrels and one in cherry and chestnut barrels. I only tasted the Sec. Interesting to try, but not something I’d drink often.

3.0 Stars (82-84 points)

Marché Du Vieux-Port Farmer’s Market, $24 CAD (approx. $18.71 USD)

There’s more to come in the next few weeks! Stay tuned!

Canada, De Chaunac, Quebec City, Ste-Croix, Wine

Destination: Québec City

June 8, 2016July 1, 2016 Appetite for Wine

Salutations de Québec!

Quebec City Gate

My wife and I have safely arrived in Quebec City, where we will be spending the next 30 days. We rented a condo in the Old City, so we can live like the locals. We are walking distance to several cafés and restaurants, and the famous historical sites in the city. In fact, the 400+ year old fortification wall is just out our back door!

We’ve only just begun to explore, but already we are taken with the beauty, charm, and history of this French-Canadian city.

Neither my wife nor I speak French well enough to blend in seamlessly. I only know enough to embarrass myself. (Really.) Fortunately, most everyone here is bilingual, and can converse in English just as well as French. This is especially true in the tourist areas and those working in hospitality. We did run into a couple of folks at a neighborhood supermarket who didn’t speak English, but they were able to summon help from a coworker in the store.

Speaking of the neighborhood supermarket…if you are a wine lover, and I assume you are if you are reading this Wine Blog, please accept some advice and learn from my mistake blunder. Do not buy wine when you are suffering from jet lag and are seriously sleep deprived. Seriously, don’t do it. You see, since we are renting a condo, we needed to find a supermarket and stock up on provisions for our stay. We’ll be cooking in more than eating out, because, money. We Googled a nearby grocery store and headed out. I had an idea where the local wine shop was located, but we were tired and just wanted to pick up a bottle for the first night. So I quickly browsed the very small wine section and grabbed the first bottle I saw that said it was from Canada. (When in Rome, and all that!) It was an $8.50 bottle, so I didn’t have great expectations, but I figured it’d be OK. It wasn’t until I got back to the condo that it dawned on me that there was no vintage listed on this 750 ml bottle. Panic started to set in. I also remembered that at the current exchange rate, that $8.50 CAD was about $6.70 USD. Uh-oh. A closer look at the label revealed nothing about what was inside, other than some fruity adjectives; no varietals listed. In a cold sweat, I logged into Vivino, only to discover, to my dismay, that this wine carried an average rating of 2.1 stars. The first review I read said “water tastes better.” I looked at the label again, and realized it said “Blended in Canada.” So I have absolutely no idea where this wine is from! This is nothing more than jug wine in a 750 ml bottle! Well, never up, never out, so I pulled the (synthetic) cork. It definitely had some nice, fruity aromas of raspberry and strawberry. Beyond that, it tasted sort of like a juice box, with a Sweet-Tart candy finish. It was drinkable, but definitely not what I’m used to enjoying. I rated it 2 stars. So again, learn from my mistakes. Don’t buy wine under the influence of jet lag; but if you must, don’t cheap out.

My wife, travel planner extraordinaire, found us a fantastic little condo through VRBO, in an historic building near the Vieux-Port. When we arrived, the owner gave us a little history, and told us the building has been in the family since the 1860’s, when her great-great-grandfather arrived from Ireland to work on the docks. The condo is a mere block away from the Marché du Vieux-Port, an indoor farmer’s market overlooking the port.

As luck good-planning-on-my-wife’s-part would have it, in addition to the fresh produce, flowers, fresh cheese, fresh seafood, large Asian food section, a Crêperie, and all things maple syrup, the Marché has at least six vendors selling wine, vin de glace (ice wine), cídre de glace, and other delights; all locally produced!

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There’s also a vendor advertising more than 300 local craft beers, if that’s your preference. Every stall I visited was staffed by very friendly folks, all of whom offered tastes of pretty much anything on the bar (and many who posed for pictures!) As I expected, actual, genuine Québécois wine is of high quality and pretty tasty! Made from locally grown grapes (many of them hybrids), like Vidal, Ste-Croix, De Chaunac, Frontenac, and Baco Noir, these wines are rich and earthy, with a unique terroir adding to the flavor. The cooler climate also means the wines are lower in alcohol than their southern counterparts; typically 11-12% ABV, from what I saw. They are also higher in acidity than many New World wines, which makes them great with food.

After several tastes, I selected the Domaine de Lavoie Tourelle 2014, a red blend of De Chaunac and Ste-Croix grapes.

Deep purple color. Aromas of ripe blackberry and black currant. Flavors of blackberry, bramble, black currant, and earthy spice. The tannins are smooth and soft, and there is food friendly acidity – more so than most New World wines. Made with local varietals, De Chaunac and Ste-Croix. The finish is medium, with earthy, dark berry notes.

$16 CAD, approx $12.70 USD at today’s exchange rate.

3.5 Hearts (85-87 points)

This was my first Canadian/Québécois wine. I look forward to exploring others over the next month. This is just the first of what I intend to be many posts from the Ville de Québec. Santé!

Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Freemark Abbey, Judgment of Paris, Napa, Wine

Review: Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon 2012

June 1, 2016June 1, 2016 Appetite for Wine

This is the first review in my Judgment of Paris wines series. I came up with the ridiculous idea of sampling recent vintages of each of the 10 reds and 10 whites represented in the famed blind tasting of 1976. This will probably take a couple of years to complete, but they say it’s good to have goals, right?

Freemark Abbey was one of 11 wineries representing Californian wine at the 1976 blind tasting event. In addition, Freemark Abbey has the distinction of being the only producer to have wines represented in both the reds (Cabernet Sauvignon/Bordeaux) and whites (Chardonnay/White Burgundy) competitions. The wines entered were hand-selected by the organizer, Steven Spurrier. Each of the wines chosen were considered the best of the best, and was selected over hundreds of others. So even though the Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon placed 10^th out of 10 entries, it’s still a very impressive showing.

Freemark Abbey has no connection to nuns or monks, or any religious institutions for that matter. Nevertheless, the winery has an intriguing past, with many notable mileposts. Freemark Abbey Winery’s history dates back to 1886, when Josephine Tychson, a Victorian widow, built a redwood cellar on the site, becoming the first female winemaker in the Napa Valley. 12 years later, in 1898, a friend of Ms. Tychson named Antonio Forni bought the winery. He renamed it Lombarda Cellars in honor of the Italian town of his birth. Forni constructed the winery building which still stands today. The current name came about in 1939, when three southern California businessmen bought the winery. Charles Freeman, Marquand Foster, and Albert “Abbey” Ahern combined their names to form Freemark Abbey. Of course the role Freemark Abbey had in the 1976 Judgment of Paris, and the impact that event had on the Napa Valley, remains one of the winery’s crowning moments.

Here’s my review of this historic Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon:

I decanted the wine for a little over an hour. Deep, inky purple color. Aromas of ripe blackberry, Marionberry, and cassis, with soft oak. As the wine opened up, the luscious aromas filled the room, and some light violet scent emerges. On to the tasting! This is a rich, full-bodied wine. There are flavors of blackberry, cassis, black plum, mild oak, and pepper. The tannins are soft and smooth. The berry and oak flavors continue into the medium-long finish, with the addition of some baking spice and dark chocolate. There is also a little lingering alcohol on the finish. Paired well with grilled ribeye and roasted rosemary potatoes.

4.0 Stars (88-91 points)

Total Wine & More: $32.99

So, one down, 19 to go! Now it’s on to the next one. Wish me luck!

MWWC, Travel, Wine

Where to This Time? #MWWC25

May 22, 2016May 28, 2016 Appetite for Wine

After following the Monthly Wine Writing Challenge for a few months, I have decided it’s finally time to put myself out there submit an entry. Last month’s winner, Loie of Cheap Wine Curious, (a blog after my own heart!) selected the topic for #MWWC25: Travel. So let’s get this show on the road!

Ah, the allure of travel. Jetting off to exotic lands; experiencing new and exciting cultures; visiting famous sites and landmarks. TSA lines. Lost luggage. Jet lag. Yes, travel is an adventure! Yet travel can mean more than international destinations, as enticing and fun as those are. We can jump in the car, and travel to nearby locales to explore what our own backyards have to offer. If you are fortunate enough to live near a wine region, day trips can be very rewarding, and time well spent. Besides being easier and less expensive, local excursions eliminate the stress and bother of figuring out how to transport all that newly purchased wine home!

I have the good fortune to live in Northern California, near Sacramento, where I am practically surrounded by some of the most famous wine regions in the world. In 30 to 90 minutes, I can travel by car to the Sierra Foothills, Clarksburg, Lodi, Napa, or Sonoma.

If it weren’t for my pesky day job, I’d spend a lot more time exploring the hundreds of fantastic wineries that are just a hop, skip, and a jump away. And living so close to such popular destinations means that I get to meet wine-loving friends, who I’d only otherwise know via social media, when they travel to the area! (If any of my fellow bloggers are planning trips to the area, and are interested in meeting, let me know!)

Of course, California isn’t the only place in the U.S. where great wine is made. In the various blogs and articles I read, I’ve been seeing a lot of information about the wines coming out of Virginia, New York, Texas, and other areas. If there are no wineries near where you live, let your fingers do the walking…to Google or your favorite search engine…and find wine events nearby. Festivals, tastings, and classes are all fun ways to incorporate a little local travel into your wine journey.

Still, many wine lovers dream of sojourns to their favorite wine regions. I long to travel to the great wine regions of Europe: Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Tuscany, Piedmont, Rioja, and so many more. I dream of walking the vineyards, seeing the beautiful châteaux and estates, and tasting the world famous wines. Travel allows us to experience other cultures and meet amazing people. It brings perspective to this small world of ours.

The topic for this month’s MWWC is especially timely, if a little premature for me. In just a couple of weeks, my wife and I will travel to Quebec City, Canada for an extended stay. Although not among the more famous wine destinations, there are several wineries in the area, worthy of a day trip or two. As it happens, I enjoy seeking out lesser known wine regions, so this will be a great opportunity to do just that. We’ll immerse ourselves in this French provincial city for several weeks; sightseeing, shopping, and of course enjoying local wine and food.

More than 400 years old, Quebec City is the oldest walled city in North America, and the only North American fortified city north of Mexico whose walls still exist. With its Old World charm, and French history and language, Quebec City is sometimes referred to as the Paris of North America.

While I’m struggling to learn a little French, I’m looking forward to immersing myself in a new culture, experiencing history come alive, and of course sampling some amazing French cuisine and wine. I’ve already scoped out the website of the major wine shop in town, and as expected, they have an incredible selection of French wine. And would you believe there is a Bistro near the condo we’re renting that serves a duck confit burger?! Ç’est magnifique!

So although I may have had more fodder for a blog post about travel after our trip, preparing and writing this post has been a great opportunity to think ahead to all the amazing things we’re planning to do and see. I plan to blog while we’re in Canada, including reviews of the new wines I anticipate trying; French, Canadian and others. Watch this space during June if you would like to follow along on my journey. (Yes, I’ll be sure to post a picture of that duck confit burger!)

Travel adds spice to life, whether it is a quick, salt-and-pepper day trip, or an exotic five-spice adventure to a distant land. Travel enables us to get out, see the sights, meet new people, and generally and literally broaden our horizons. Near or far; relaxing or intense; whether by train, plane, automobile, or bicycle, get out there and experience what the world has to offer! Where will you go today?

Santé!

Catalonia, Priorat, Spain, Wine

Review: Capafons Osso Sirsell 2008

May 7, 2016 Appetite for Wine

This week, my continuing exploration of Old World wine regions brought me, figuratively, to Priorat. In recent years, wines from Priorat have increased in popularity, so I was happy for the opportunity to check them out. The Priorat DOQ (Denominació d’Origen Qualificada) is located in Catalonia, in the northeastern part of Spain.

Priorat is one of only two wine regions in Spain to earn the distinguished Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa), the highest classification in Spain, indicating consistent high quality wines. The other region is Rioja.

The primary grapes from this region are Garnacha (Grenache) and Cariñena (Carignan). In addition, winemakers often blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah in their wines. Influenced by the warm, Mediterranean climate, Priorat red wines tend to be intense and full-bodied, with ripe, bold fruit flavors, with ABV in the 15% range, and as high as 18%.

Priorat’s rise in popularity began in 1989, when a group of winemakers joined together to revive the oft-neglected region and improve the quality of the wines. I’ve seen more and more Priorat wines in articles and reviews, so I was excited when I received a bottle as an upgrade in a recent Underground Cellar purchase. For those who don’t know, Underground Cellar’s claim to fame is “free upgrades.” When you purchase multiple wines from a sale offer, random bottles are upgraded to higher priced bottles at no additional cost.

The Capafons Osso Sirsell 2008 is a blend of 35% Garnacha, 26% Merlot, 22% Cariñena, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Syrah. Like most Priorat red wines, it spent 12 months in French oak. Here is my review:

Dark purple color. On the nose, aromas of blackberry jam and ripe blueberries, with hearty oak. These carry to the palate, and are joined with flavors of raspberry jam, cassis, and spice. Tannins are very soft and smooth, and the acidity is balanced. This is quite a jammy wine, especially for an Old World wine. Yet it isn’t a “fruit bomb” but rather is juicy and delicious. The finish lingers long with dark fruit jam followed by earthy mineral notes.

3.5 Stars (85-87 points)

Retail: $24. I paid $21 and got it as an Underground Cellar upgrade.

Although this wine was a little jammier than I prefer, my wife loved it! She’d rate it at least 4.0 stars (88-91 points). I look forward to buying and trying more wines from Priorat.

Cheers!

CMS, Sommelier, Wine

Sommeliers: Do We Need Them?

April 30, 2016 Appetite for Wine

First of all, congratulations to Arvid Rosengren, from Sweden, who was recently named World’s Best Sommelier for 2016. He recounts, in an interview with Food & Wine Magazine,[1] the six years of constant study and preparation for the event. Held once every three years by the Association de la Sommellerie, the World’s Best Sommelier competition challenges sommeliers to written and practical exams. It is an intense, grueling event, and in the current culture of celebrity chefs and rock-star somms, winning could really go to one’s head. Yet Rosengren humbly concludes, “You know, whoever’s the best sommelier is really the one who makes his or her guests feel the best.”

2016 Worlds Best Somm — Arvid Rosengren, World’s Best Sommelier, 2016

Which got me to thinking about sommeliers in general, and I wondered: are sommeliers still relevant and necessary? In today’s social media culture, with Smartphones and apps constantly at our fingertips, do we really need a studied expert to tell us what wine we should drink with our meal? Spoiler alert…I believe we do. But perhaps the deeper question is: what qualifications should exist to be sommelier? I’ve read a number of articles lately arguing one point or another on this question, some of which I discuss in this post.

Living in suburban Northern California, I really don’t have a lot of experience interacting with sommeliers. There’s a fantastic wine bar and bistro down the street, owned and operated by a certified sommelier. I enjoy visiting there and talking wine, when he’s available. More often than not, if suggestions aren’t listed in the menu, it’s his wait staff who make pairing recommendations. Indeed, most of the restaurants in the community, even those with serious wine programs, rely on well-trained servers, rather than sommeliers. This doesn’t seem to be that uncommon here in the Wild Wild West. A San Francisco Chronicle article, from March 2015, asks “Where are all S.F.’s wine pros?” [2]

It's called 'Pretentious.' It tastes like crap, but it's $100 per bottle! — It’s called ‘Pretentious.’ It tastes like crap, but it’s $100 per bottle!

Let’s lay the groundwork with a definition. What is a sommelier? A sommelier, at the core, is somebody who manages a wine list. Not a very elegant or romantic definition, I know. The practice of certification for sommeliers is a relatively recent development. While wine and wine service has been around for thousands of years, the first Master Sommelier exam was held in 1969, and the Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS) wasn’t established until 1977. Since then, there has been a movement by some people to elevate certified sommeliers to a revered status, and restrict the use of the “S-word” to those who have passed their CMS exams.

I do agree that earning one’s Certified Sommelier pin is an impressive achievement, worthy of respect. However, we should not lose sight of the basic role sommeliers play. Like any other profession, there are book-smarts, and then there are street-smarts. Earning certification does not necessarily equate to the ability to be a successful sommelier in a day-to-day, customer service operation. Many highly qualified people have worked their way up, learning hands-on, on the job, but have not invested the time and considerable cash in obtaining certification. Arguably, these experts are no less sommeliers than those who have studied for, and passed their exams. Indeed, in an article published in Punch, Dustin Wilson, Master Sommelier and Wine Director at New York’s Eleven Madison Park, asserts that “in order to have a mature profession you need both the structure and standards that certification offers and the sort of openness that allows people to choose a different path.”[3] And in another Punch article, Carson Demmond goes so far as to say that “sommelier” is simply a job title. She says, “Sommelier” isn’t an abstract title or a generic, yet high-brow name for “wine expert”—it’s a job. A restaurant job. And certification is by no means prerequisite to being a good one.”[4]

Still, I do think that sommeliers, whether certified or not, are a valuable asset for the hungry masses. At least for some. Early in my wine journey, I was much too intimidated to ask questions of the few sommeliers I encountered. That’s a negative consequence of the mystique that the profession has created for itself. However, as wine culture expands and becomes less pretentious, more people are interested in learning. This is especially true for the younger generation, which tends to demystify much in life, breaking through boundaries, and bringing lofty things down to earth. In fact, in yet another Punch article, author Francis Percival describes the shift from stuffy, suit and tie “sommelier,” to the more casual, hipster, tattooed and jeans-wearing “somm.”[5] This eagerness to explore is not limited to millennials. As I’ve expanded my wine knowledge, I now know enough to be curious, and appreciate the opportunity to talk wine with an expert.

Finally, along with their knowledge and expertise about wine, and the foods with which to pair them, sommeliers bring with them the human element, so often lacking in our modern, connected, face-in-a-phone society. Smartphone apps only go so far, and like social media in general, remove actual, human interaction from our existence. Besides, they haven’t yet invented an app that can pull the cork and decant that pricey bottle of Burgundy for you.

So, yes, I do believe the sommelier is not only relevant, but necessary. Whether certified or not, it is about providing a service and enhancing a guest’s experience. For this reason, I value and respect sommeliers everywhere.

What do you think?

_________________________________________________________

[1] http://www.foodandwine.com/blogs/what-it-takes-become-best-sommelier-world

[2] http://www.sfchronicle.com/wine/article/The-last-sommelier-standing-where-are-all-6119178.php

[3] http://punchdrink.com/articles/op-ed-in-defense-of-sommelier-certification/

[4] http://punchdrink.com/articles/the-myth-of-sommelier-certification-debunked/

[5] http://punchdrink.com/articles/the-rise-of-the-american-somm/

Cabernet Sauvignon, Club W, Pinot Grigio, Wine

Club W, Part II

April 3, 2016 Appetite for Wine

Hooray! I received my second Club W order! I reviewed and discussed my first Club W experience a few weeks ago in Club W, Part I. As you may recall, I ran into a small glitch in my first order; a $26 introductory credit did not apply correctly, leaving me out of pocket for the full price of the order. Faster than a speeding bullet, the Club W customer service team credited my account for the $26, resolving the issue for me, and ensuring a repeat customer for them.

I had high hopes for my second order. Being somewhat underwhelmed by the standard $13 wines, I included in my order a $24 “Porter & Plot” 2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, along with three of the $13 selections: 2013 “Likelihood of Confusion” Sierra Foothills Zinfandel, 2012 “La Forza” Super Tuscan, and 2014 Più Gioia Pinot Grigio (IGT delle Venezie, Italy.) Living in the shadow of the Sierra Foothills, I am especially partial to Zinfandel from that region, so I was really looking forward to experiencing a “Likelihood of Confusion.” Purchasing four bottles gets you free shipping, saving $6, so it’s like getting the fourth bottle for only $7.

Unless otherwise specified, Club W orders are processed on the day of the month in which one’s first order was placed. My processing date was March 2. Alas, on March 3, I received an e-mail from Natalie, a Club W Wine Concierge, with some bad news. There had been an accident in the warehouse, and the last few cases of “Likelihood of Confusion” had been damaged. Natalie apologized, and had already credited my account for the $13 cost of that bottle, once again assuring another repeat order from me. I understand that accidents happen, and to the best of my knowledge, nobody was hurt, which is the most important thing. So at worst, I missed out on trying a wine I was looking forward to tasting. Also, this provides fodder for “Club W, Part III” sometime down the road.

Eager with anticipation, my (now) three-bottle box arrived at my office. Like a kid a Christmas, I cut the seal and lifted the lid. There’s my 2011 Napa Cabernet! There’s the Super Tuscan. But…where’s the golden-hued Pinot Grigio? In its place, there is a 2014 Meraki Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles.

Now, I love Cabernet. And I’m starting to explore Paso Robles wines more. Stock-outs happen, I get it. But if that’s the case, substituting a big, bold Cabernet for a light, refreshing Pinot Grigio? That just doesn’t make sense. Perhaps it was an order-fulfillment error. Those happen, too.

I e-mailed Natalie, explained what had happened, and asked that she look into it for me. 12 minutes later, Natalie replied. (There’s that speeding bullet again!) Natalie said she would look into it, but affirmed this appeared to be a warehouse error. In the meantime, she had already submitted an order to send me that missing 2014 Più Gioia Pinot Grigio, shipped expedited service. She also told me to keep and enjoy the Meraki Cabernet, and even recommended it as one of her favorites!

So while my ordering experiences have not been without hiccups, the Club W Customer Service team has been on top of it with prompt, courteous, and satisfactory service. Kudos to Natalie and the rest of the team for providing such good service in a day and age when good service is hard to find! And now, on to the reviews!

Meraki Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2014

This is one of the best mistakes I’ve ever received!

“Medium purple color in the glass. Appealing, classic Cabernet Sauvignon aromas of blackberry and cassis. On the palate, flavors of ripe plum, cherry, blackberry, and oak. The tannins are remarkably soft and smooth for such a young wine, giving it a creamy mouthfeel. On the finish there are light berry notes with a hint of leather and tobacco.

Biodynamically produced if that’s your thing. This is the best wine I’ve had so far from Club W! Great value at just $13!”

4.5 Stars (92 to 94 points)

La Forza Super Tuscan 2012

“Ruby-purple color. Aromas of fresh blackberry, cherry, and spice. On the palate there are flavors of blackberry, red currant, black pepper, oak, and just a bit of earthy notes. Medium bodied with firm tannins and bright, fresh acidity, this wine is made for food. Yet is fruit-forward enough to stand up on its own. The long finish lingers with blackberry and spice, and that acidity keeps the mouth tingling for several minutes. A very nicely made Super Tuscan!”

4.0 Stars (88-91 points)

Più Gioia Pinot Grigio 2014

“Light golden/dark straw color. Initial aromas of stone fruit and mango give way to pineapple and grapefruit on the nose. Light bodied with bold, lively acidity. Tangy citrus flavors dominate; grapefruit and lemon-lime, with pineapple, and a hint of pear on the finish. As it warms and opens, I get a whiff of banana candy. Definitely more tangy than most Italian PGs I’ve had; almost more of a Cali Sauv Blanc style, but well made and interesting. Paired well with grilled shrimp.”

3.5 Stars (85-87 points)

Porter & Plot Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

And at last, the $24 bottle I’ve been waiting to try!

“Ruby/purple color in the glass. Aromas of Marionberry pie, black plum, and violet. On the tongue, there are a variety of flavors going on, including Marionberry/blackberry, ripe plum, black currant, and a hint of cedar and spice. The tannins are very soft and smooth, with mild acidity. The mouthfeel is rich and full, coating the mouth. This wine has aged well these five years, (although with the wax seal preventing any air getting in, necessary for long-term aging, I’m not sure how much longer it will continue to improve.) The finish is pleasant and lingers with dark berry, cola, smoke, and mild vanilla/oak notes.”

4.0 Stars (88-91 points)

Conclusion

After two orders, I still think Club W is a novel concept and a good source for people who are newer to wine exploration. As I mentioned in my earlier post, their target market appears to be millennials who are just starting to enjoy wine. In summary, here are the pros and cons, as I’ve experienced them so far.

Pros:

They have a wide selection, including some lesser known varietals, and are supporting small production winemakers.
They have some unique features that other online retailers and clubs do not. For example, it appears that once you’ve placed a bottle in your basket, it’s yours – even if you don’t complete and ship the order for a couple of months, and it otherwise sells out in the meantime.
Their customer service team is prompt, courteous, and efficient.
You can easily skip a month, or several, without cost or penalty.
Their packaging is second-to-none.

Cons:

Limited ability to review (1-5 scale ratings, only, and no half-stars), or otherwise communicate with the winemakers. It seems ratings are only used to power the algorithm to determine recommendations.
The wines are good, but not what I consider great. Of seven bottles, my average rating is 3.7 stars (roughly 86-88 points.) Not bad, but frankly, I can get equal quality for less, or better for the same price. For example, the Porter & Plot 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon was good; I rated it 4.0. However, for the same $24, I can get a Beaulieu Vineyards Rutherford Cabernet, a solid 4.5+ wine, from my local Total Wine & More store.
While their customer service team is very good, the fact that I have had contact with, or from, their customer service team three times in two orders is telling. Hopefully it’s just growing pains and they’ll get the kinks worked out.

As I’ve mentioned, I foresee continuing to order from Club W once in a while. If you are new to wine, and want to try out the Club W algorithm for recommendations, do us both a $13 favor, and follow this link to sign up!

I think for my next order, I’ll let Club W do all the heavy lifting, and go with their recommendations. I’ll let you know what I think in Club W, Part III. Stay tuned!

Cheers!

Jac Cole, Mosaico, nakedwines.com, Wine

Review: Jac Cole Mosaico Napa Valley 2014

March 28, 2016March 29, 2016 Appetite for Wine

Regular readers know that Jac Cole has become one of my favorite winemakers. As one of the winemakers for NakedWines.com, his wines may be unknown to folks who are not Naked Wines Angels. Yet Jac knows his way around a winery. He’s been making wine in California for more than 40 years. Some better known labels for whom Jac has worked include Charles Krug, Spring Mountain, and Cliff Lede.

I reviewed Jac’s Mosaico Sonoma Valley 2013 here, so this will, in a way, be my first vertical review. I say “in a way” because I did not taste these wines at the same time, but more importantly, these are two distinctly different wines, from different regions. The 2013 was a blend of Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. The 2014 is all Napa Valley, and in addition to the Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, Jac added some Merlot to the blend. Still, these two wines showcase Jac’s winemaking talent in his ability to make consistently outstanding wines from varied blends, from different regions.

Despite their differences, both 2013 and 2014 are outstanding wines. Big, bold, and complex, showcasing the best of all the varietals in the blends, Jac’s Mosaico blends are fantastic now, and will continue to improve for several years in the cellar…if you can hold onto them that long!

Here’s what I thought of the Jac Cole Mosaico Napa Valley 2014, posted on NakedWines.com:

Jac, you’ve done it again! Your 2013 Mosaico Sonoma County was one of the best red blends I’ve tasted. This 2014 Mosaico Napa Valley surpasses it.

Deep purple color with a ruby rim. Aromas of blackberry, plum, and oak greet the nose. On the tongue, this is a rich, full-bodied wine with flavors of chocolate-covered cherry, ripe plum, blackberry, oak, and spice. Tannins are firm and full, but balanced with lively acidity. The finish is long and full, with dark berry, tobacco smoke, and spice.

Bearing the Napa Valley designation, the grapes may have come from all over the valley. However, the terroir in this wine is distinctive, and I would not be surprised to find there is Rutherford and/or Oakville fruit in the blend. Exquisite!

Although outstanding now, like the 2013, this wine will only improve with time. Get several, and lay some down for a year or 10.

5 out of 5 stars/hearts (95+ points)

MSRP: $34.99, Angel Price: $16.99

One of the really cool things about NakedWines.com is that Angels get to interact directly with the winemakers on the social media site. The day after I posted my review, Jac Cole replied, and confirmed that the Cabernet Sauvignon in this blend is, in fact, from Rutherford. This is high quality stuff!

You can only get Jac Cole Mosaico Napa Valley 2014 from NakedWines.com. If you haven’t tried them yet, here’s a voucher worth $100 off a first-time order of $160 or more. You’ll be glad you did!

Franc Dusak, nakedwines.com, Sonoma Valley, Wine, Zinfandel

Review: Franc Dusak Zinfandel Sonoma Valley 2013

March 19, 2016April 23, 2016 Appetite for Wine

I love Zinfandel. This may be in part because my red wine journey started in earnest with Zinfandel. Also, living minutes from the Sierra Foothills, famous for its Old Vine Zinfandel, I have access to some of the best Zin on the planet. I admit a Sierra Foothill bias, but I enjoy exploring other regions and have found a few that continue to impress me with outstanding Zinfandel. Among these are Dry Creek Valley, in Sonoma County, and the greater Sonoma County region in general. This is where today’s wine is from.

Zinfandel is a versatile grape that can present in a variety of different ways, from jammy fruit bombs; to big, bold, and spicy; to light and floral. I think a lot of people who say they don’t like Zinfandel have only been exposed to the former – those jammy, “please pass the peanut butter” fruit bombs. These tend to fall in the lower end of the price spectrum, which is where I have found most people start when exploring new varietals. Generally speaking, fruit bomb Zin comes from warmer climates, like Lodi in California’s Central Valley. Fruit bombs have their place, and many people prefer them. However, my personal preference is big, bold, and spicy Zinfandel. These are most common from slightly cooler regions like the Sierra Foothills and Sonoma County.

Having such a fondness for Zinfandel, imagine my excitement when Franc Dusak’s Zinfandel Sonoma Valley 2013 appeared for sale on the NakedWines.com website! I’ve had other Franc Dusak wines before, and been blown away by all of them, but this is his first Zinfandel for NakedWines.com. This wine spent 23 months in the barrel, which will give it a soft, smooth texture along with the delicious flavors. I ordered some the first day it was available.

Franc Dusak has been making wine for more than a decade, but his name has always been behind the scenes. About a year ago, NakedWines.com got ahold of him, and propelled him to instant stardom! (In my book, at least!) But enough with the lead-in…on to the review!

I’m a Zin freak. Over the years, I’ve had more Zin than any other varietal. Franc, your 2013 Sonoma Valley Zinfandel is dee-licious!

Deep purple with brick rim. Aromas of blueberries and blackberries, along with the promise of oak and spice. On the palate, blackberry, black pepper, black cherry, and promise kept: smooth oak and a spicy finish. Exceptionally balanced fruit and spice ratio; medium body. The tannins are velvety smooth and balanced with soft acidity. Those 23 months in oak really paid off! I’m glad I bought more than one!!

4.5 out of 5 hearts (92-94 points)

Available only from NakedWines.com. Angel Price: $13.99

If this sounds like your kind of Zinfandel, and you aren’t yet a NakedWines.com Angel, click the Naked Wines logo above, or here for a voucher worth $100 off a first-time order of $160 or more. You won’t be sorry you did!