Appetite for Wine

Amador County, Farm-to-Glass, Sangiovese, Sierra Foothills, Vineyard Tour, Vino Noceto, Wine

Farm-to-Glass at Vino Noceto

October 23, 2016October 29, 2016 Appetite for Wine

Many wineries have tours. Visitors get to see the crush pad, fermentation tanks, and barrel room on the way to the tasting room. I have been on several of these tours, and always enjoy them. There is something enlightening in learning more about the processes that go into making this wonderful, enjoyable beverage. Still, I’ve often felt there was something missing in these tours: the vineyard. What goes on out there? I long to walk the rows, taste the berries straight from the vines, and learn more about the agricultural part of the process. Wine is, after all, the end result of months of patient and backbreaking farming. Then I learned about the Farm-to-Glass Vineyard Tour at Vino Noceto. I signed up immediately.

Vino Noceto is a family-owned winery in the Sierra Foothills. More specifically, they are in Amador County, in the Shenandoah Valley AVA, a sub-appellation of the Sierra Foothills AVA. Located in the rolling hills about an hour east of Sacramento, Vino Noceto is a fun, friendly, and inviting destination.

Pomegranates galore!

Olives nearly ready for harvest

Awards and Passion

The Farm-to-Glass tour is often led by either the winemaker, Rusty Folena, or owner Jim Gullett. For my tour, a small group of just three of us, Jim was our guide, providing us with intimate details and insight into the history of the winery. It was fascinating to hear Jim relate his personal journey from just starting out; to the successful operation he leads today.

Jim Gullett, owner and tour guide extraordinaire!

Jim and his wife Suzy purchased the land, formerly a walnut grove, in 1984. The name, Noceto, reflects a part of Suzy’s history. Suzy is from the city of Walnut Creek, in the east Bay Area of Northern California. Noceto is Italian for walnut grove. It is also the name of a town in Italy, located in the province of Parma. Noceto, Italy is the sister city of Walnut Creek, California.

In keeping with the Italian connection, Vino Noceto specializes in Sangiovese, the main grape used in Chianti. Vino Noceto is one of the leading producers of Sangiovese in California. This is quite a departure for a winery in a region known for Gold Rush-era Zinfandel vines, and the Rhone varietals many of their neighbors are producing. Still, Jim and Suzy had a passion, and they pursued it.

The tour began in the tasting room; just long enough to each receive a glass and a generous pour of Vino Noceto’s Clarksburg Pinot Grigio. Light, crisp, and delicious, this was a great way to start off! Jim grabbed his bottle caddy – more tastes awaited us along the way – and we headed off to the vineyard.

The next wine we tasted was the flagship Sangiovese Originale. We tasted the 2013, but the first release of this Chianti-style wine was in 1990. Light, ruby color in the glass with flavors of raspberry and cherry, and lively, balanced acidity. This wine is delightful on its own, and would pair exceptionally with a variety of foods. Jim said his vision was to create a “Chianti with California sunshine.” He didn’t want to simply imitate Chianti; he’s in California, and he wanted to allow the California influence to shine through. Mission accomplished, Jim!

Many of Vino Noceto’s Sangiovese vines can be traced back to nine original cuttings. These were obtained from a neighboring winery that had procured them some years earlier, but decided to go a different direction with their production. Other vines came from various other sources, all of which can be traced back to Italy. Some of these other cuttings had originally been brought to the U.S. from Chianti via (ahem) a briefcase import in the 1970’s. So the Vino Noceto vines have some pretty prestigious, if shadowy, heritage.

The original vineyard plot is called Dos Oakies, because of two large oak trees that stood watch over the vines. One of these sentinels fell in a storm a few years ago, but the other remains, providing shade and shelter for vineyard tourists and wildlife alike.

As we walked through the vineyard, Jim informed us that Vino Noceto is a Certified Sustainable vineyard. After harvest and crush, the grape pressings are returned to the earth to help fertilize for next year. They also reclaim the water used in production. In addition, their winery and tasting rooms run completely on solar power, and investment that has already paid for itself.

Harvest was already complete on the day of my tour, but some fruit lingered on the vines. This enabled us to sample some of the berries. We tasted Trebbiano and Malvasia, both white grapes, and Sangiovese, Canaiolo Nero, and Aglianico, the latter two used as a blending grapes in Italian wines. It was interesting to note the differences in flavor, texture, and tannin, right there among the vines that produced the fruit.

One the way to the winery building itself, we sampled two more wines; the Dos Oakies Sangiovese, a single vineyard bottling from that original vineyard block; and the Hillside Sangiovese. Both were stunning, and had the classic Chianti stylings, with that extra pop of California sunshine. The Hillside Sangiovese has just a hint more oakiness, giving it a fuller feel and flavor. Perhaps that is why it has won so many awards and high scores!

At the winery, the tour included a stop at the crush pad, where Jim explained the processes from harvest, to sorting and de-stemming, to crush. Then we moved into the fermentation room and barrel room. Jim detailed the processes, including such decisions as which yeast to use in fermentation, and the level of toast required for their barrels.

Though Sangiovese experts, Vino Noceto is a Sierra Foothills winery. Therefore, they also produce a Zinfandel. Using his wine thief, Jim got us a barrel taste of the 2016. It is already coming along nicely, and when released in a couple of years, will be a superb Zinfandel. As we left the winery, Jim poured us a taste from their current release, 2012 OGP Zinfandel, made with grapes from the Original Grandpère vineyard. Unlike many jammy, powerful Zins, this is a lighter, more restrained Zinfandel that really allows the fruit to show its stuff!

Normally when you hear “cult wine” you think of big, bold, in-your-face Cabernet from Napa. Would you believe: a cult white wine? Yes, Vino Noceto makes a Moscato blend called Frivolo. Slightly effervescent, and completely refreshing and delicious, Frivolo has a cult following, and its own wine club! That’s right, a club for a single wine. Members receive one shipment per year, in December – a case of the newly released vintage. While the 2014 is long sold out, the day of my tour the 2016 was undergoing cold stabilization. Naturally, as a good host, Jim got us a sample from the tank. Ice cold, but still delicious and flavorful!

The tour ended back in the tasting room, where Jim said his goodbyes and left us in the care of the friendly, helpful staff. There, we were offered more tastes of wines we didn’t try on the tour, plus opportunities to re-try those we had. Like so many Sierra Foothills wineries, tastings at Vino Noceto are complimentary.

If you are in the area, I highly recommend the Farm-to-Glass Vineyard tour. Tours are held daily at 11:00 a.m.; free for club members, $10 for everyone else. Money well spent! You can book online here, or call Vino Noceto at (209) 245-6556 x2.

Saluti!

Fiction, MWWC, Smile, Wine

Smile – #MWWC28

October 21, 2016October 21, 2016 Appetite for Wine

What’s the longest word in the English language? Smiles. There are only six letters, but there’s a “mile” between the first and the last!

This is my entry for #MWWC28. As the winner of MWWC27, Beth, The Traveling Wine Chick earned the honor of selecting the next topic. She chose “Smile.”

The first thought that comes to my mind when I hear the word “smile” associated with wine is: “Of course. Wine makes me smile.” But that makes for a pretty short blog post. Instead, I’m going to step outside my comfort zone, and try a little creative writing.

Steve had it all. He was the high school football quarterback, homecoming king, and just to complete the cliché, he dated the head cheerleader. With straight A’s and a league football championship his senior year, he received a full-ride scholarship to the prestigious university of your choice. Steve was no slouch.

After college, Steve accepted a position at a major investment firm, and was quickly working his way up the ladder, earning a fat paycheck plus commissions. Yes, he married his high school sweetheart, the cheerleader, and they started a family. Steve’s life was picture perfect, and his future looked bright.

One year, his company holiday party was held at a local winery. Steve had never been a wine drinker. Sure, he’d had a glass from time to time, but never really got into it. In fact, he had never been much of a drinker at all, preferring to focus on his personal goals and lifetime achievements. He felt that drinking could become a distraction, and he would lose his focus. Still, the winemaker herself was at the party, pouring her best wines. Steve enjoyed a few minutes chatting with the winemaker, but asserted that common argument: “wine gives me headaches.” The winemaker assured Steve he would not get a headache from her wine. He agreed to give it a try, and she poured him a glass. At the first sip, a smile emerged on Steve’s face. This wine was delicious! Steve had a hard time describing it, but he knew it was different, and better than any wine he’d had. He was hooked immediately.

With a fresh appreciation for the wonders of a finely crafted wine, Steve started a small collection. He began exploring varietals, regions, and styles. He joined clubs, and went wine tasting with his wife on the weekends. Pretty soon, Steve found himself planning vacations around wine regions, and he enjoyed exploring the beautiful landscapes of Bordeaux and Burgundy, Tuscany, Alsace, Rioja, and others. Over the years, Steve tasted hundreds of wines from regions the world over. He loved to share his love of wine, hosting dinner parties, and donating bottles to charity auctions. Whenever a friend or family member needed a wine recommendation, Steve got the call.

Then one fateful day, Steve’s phone rang. It was bad news. Cancer. Steve’s mom had been his biggest supporter; driving him to practices, mending his torn uniforms, tutoring him on those hard subjects. She was there for the good times and the bad. Now she needed him. Even those whose lives appear perfect from the outside can suffer life-changing tragedies. Our lives can change in an instant with a phone call or conversation. Steve’s world was rocked to the foundation. Cancer is something that happens to other people, not Steve and his mom. But it did happen; is happening. Steve was comfortably well-off, but cancer doesn’t discriminate between rich or poor. You can’t buy your way out of this.

Steve caught the next flight home and went to stay with his mom. The prognosis was not good. The cancer had spread quickly and by the time the doctors caught it, it was too far gone. They gave her only 30 days. Steve was with her for the duration. He drove her to doctor’s appointments, and helped arrange for the best hospice care in the area. In the end it was peaceful, surrounded by loved ones.

Steve returned home a changed man. The grief and pain had sucked the life and joy out of him. He found it difficult to smile at much of anything. He was a strong man; a survivor; so he knew intellectually that he would eventually heal. But at times, the emotional pain was crushing. Even his passion for wine waned. He’d still have a glass or two with dinner, but it wasn’t the same. He was careful with his drinking, because he knew that self-medicating his pain could be dangerous, so he regulated his consumption. Weeks passed, then months, and slowly the hurting became less intense, and he knew he was starting to heal.

A few weeks later, Steve was working late. The custodian, Jeff, came into Steve’s office to clean. Steve had worked late often enough that he knew Jeff, but they had never talked beyond pleasantries. Still, something in Jeff’s demeanor told Steve something was wrong. Steve inquired, and Jeff confided that his father had just passed away. Instantly, corner-office Steve and custodian Jeff were on level ground. A friendship was born out of mutual heartache and pain. Through Steve’s friendship and caring, Jeff walked through his grief and was soon feeling like his old self. But the friendship didn’t end with the end of the crisis. Steve and Jeff remained committed friends, and their families became inseparable.

On a bright, clear Saturday morning some weeks later, Steve took Jeff winetasting. They spent the day exploring the local wine region, tasting wine and enjoying the peaceful beauty of the vineyards. That evening, Steve cooked dinner for the two families, and opened a bottle of his favorite wine. It was a perfect ending to a perfect day. As they savored the meal and wine, Steve, Jeff, and their wives all shared happy, contented smiles.

And they lived happily ever after.

This is a work of fiction. The characters and events are made up. Except for the part about the holiday party when Steve first discovers quality wine. That really happened, and is how I got started on my wine journey. Nevertheless, although fictional, the emotions and feelings are real. When going through a rough time, stay focused on the things that are really important in life. Even in times of tragedy and pain, if you look for them, you can find things that can, from the depths, evoke a genuine smile.

This post has been therapeutic for me. Although not death, cancer, or any other illness, I have been walking through a very difficult time, and have had difficulty finding smiles. Writing this fictional story has helped me to realize the truth underlined above. If you are going through a painful time, my hope is that my words are helpful to you, and that you, too, can find a smile.

Santé!

Argentina, New York Strip Steak, Unanime, Wine

Review: Mascota Vineyards Unánime 2011

October 9, 2016October 9, 2016 Appetite for Wine

Sometimes a wine comes along that is special in ways that transcend the quality and ratings. Unánime 2011 is such a wine. Sure, Wine Enthusiast gave it 93 points. That’s impressive all on its own. Yes, it’s the Total Wine & More No. 1 red wine of 2016. All those customers and store associates can’t be wrong, so there’s that. Accolades certainly generate interest and drive sales, and that’s always a good thing. However, what makes this bottle special is the circumstances by which it ended up in my hands, and its contents in my glass.

Sometimes life throws you a curveball. Not long ago, I found myself facing a particularly difficult pitch. Fortunately, I have a great coaching staff around me, so I was able to swing and make contact. Circumstances arose that required we sell our home, and quick. As luck would have it, my brother-in-law, Todd, is a realtor, so we engaged his services. Through a combination of his professional talents and 11 years of loving care of our home, we accepted an offer after just 7 days on the market. The entire process ran smoothly and, thanks largely to Todd’s influence, the 30-day escrow closed on time.

I can’t begin to adequately express my appreciation for Todd’s help and expertise throughout this very stressful process. So imagine my surprise this morning, when I answered a knock at my new door, and there stood Todd, gift bag in hand. I should be buying him gifts, and yet as a “thank you” for allowing him to serve us, he brought me a gift of Unánime 2011.

As it happened, I was planning to grill a New York steak for dinner tonight – my first grilling experience after several weeks in transition. It was to be a simple, but special dinner. I was debating what wine to open with my steak, but as soon as I pulled the bottle from the bag, I had my answer.

As I mentioned, Mascota Vineyards Unánime 2011 is the Total Wine & More No. 1 red wine of 2016. I’ve wanted to try it for some weeks, but just haven’t had the time. Todd solved this problem for me. From the back label:

UNANIME, from the Latin “Unanimis” refers to a group of people sharing the same opinions or views; being in complete harmony or accord.

This simple word summarizes this special project. When we were finishing the harvest 2005, both our Winemakers and Agronomists agreed that it was the time to start crafting a superior red blend, a “Gran Vino Tinto”.

We wanted to reflect the great wines Argentina can offer when exceptional climate and passionate people come together in harmony.

A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec, and 15% Cabernet Franc, from the Uco Valley in Mendoza, the 2011 spent 20 months in French oak. Here’s what I thought about it:

Inky doesn’t begin to describe the color. Nearly black in the decanter with deep violet rim. Early aromas of ripe blackberry, black cherry, chocolate, and soft oak. On the palate, this is a big, bold, chewy wine with flavors of ripe blackberry, black currant, black pepper, spice, and black cherry. Full bodied with massive tannins, even after 3 hours in the decanter. The finish is long, with black pepper, spice, and dark chocolate. When paired with a juicy New York strip steak, spectacular. This wine will age well for the next 5-10 years.

4.5 stars, 92 – 94 points

$24.99 at Total Wine & More

ny-strip-steak-and-baked-sweet-potato-with-unanime — NY Strip Steak and Baked Sweet Potato. The salad was on the side. Honest.

Argentina and beef are synonymous, and this wine is a natural complement to a juicy cut. Grab a bottle of Unánime 2011, fire up the grill, and enjoy the magic.

Cheers!

Bijou, Chardonnay, Chateau St. Jean, Wine

Review: Chateau St. Jean Bijou Chardonnay 2014

October 2, 2016October 2, 2016 Appetite for Wine

Once upon a time, I was an ABC’er – Anything But Chardonnay. This stemmed from my general dislike for the California Oak Bombs popular in the 90’s and early 2000’s. As much as I appreciate the influence of oak in wine, I prefer that oak is an enhancer, rather than the dominant flavor. If a wine tastes like I’m licking the inside of a barrel, I’m going to take a pass.

A couple of years ago, I took a leap of faith and started exploring Chardonnay again, but only the Unoaked style. Crisp and fruit-driven, I gained a new appreciation for this, the most popular white varietal in the world. Once I understood the grape, sans oak, I have slowly ventured into oaked styles in the hopes my palate would expand to the point where I could include all styles of Chardonnay in my wine repertoire.

While strolling the wine section of my local Trader Joe’s the other day, I had to do a double-take. A lightly oaked Chardonnay, from notable producer Chateau St. Jean, for just $6.99? Without a second thought, into the cart it went!

The Bijou Chardonnay is part of Chateau St. Jean’s California collection. This is their entry level line, carrying the general “California” designation. This means that the grapes may have come from anywhere in the vast Golden State, rather than from a specific, smaller American Viticulture Area (AVA). Thus, there is not going to be a concentrated expression of terroir, but rather, a more general blend of what Chardonnay has to offer. Nevertheless, I found this to be a remarkably well balanced Chardonnay; fruit dominant, with subtle oak influences and crisp acidity.

Here’s my review, posted on Vivino:

For an entry level wine, this is a remarkably well balanced Chardonnay. Golden straw color in the glass. Aromas of pear, white peach, and browned butter. On the palate, flavors of pineapple, pear, peach, and tropical fruit mingle with toasty oak and just the right amount of zippy acidity. Medium body with a long, zesty finish. If you don’t like Chardonnay, try this lightly oaked version! It could open doors for you, and at just $7, you can’t go wrong!

4.0 out of 5 stars (88 – 91 points)

$6.99 at Trader Joe’s

At the risk of repeating myself…which I’m going to do anyway…if you are an ABC’er, give this wine a try. It’s only $7, so you really have nothing to lose, and an appreciation for this iconic grape to gain. What are you waiting for? Trader Joe’s closes at 9 p.m. Go!

Bordeaux, Club W, Pinot Grigio, Pinotage, Winc, Wine

Club W: Part III

September 25, 2016September 25, 2016 Appetite for Wine

At long last, I bring you my third and final installment of my Club W series. Between summer travel and other matters, it’s been awhile since I checked in on this online wine distributor. If you missed the first two posts, you can read them here, and here. Go ahead, I’ll wait…

A few things have changed since my last Club W post.

First, a company name change and rebranding. Club W is a part of Winc (Wine, Inc.), and the decision was made to drop the Club W name, and identify solely as Winc. This transition is still in process, and the clubw.com website is still fully functional.

Secondly, the minimum purchase requirement has increased from three bottles to four. To qualify for free shipping, you always had to order four bottles, so now all orders are shipped for free. On the bright side, if you enjoy reds and whites equally, this allows you to select two reds and two whites as your default setting. (You can also select any combination of four – all reds, all whites, or three of one and one of the other.) Nevertheless, this also means that instead of $39 per month, plus $6 shipping for a total of $45, the cost for continuing, regular membership is $52 per month.

Third, the company has implemented an incentive to encourage customers to rate their wines. When you rate 10 wines, you get a $10 credit. Unfortunately, this is not retroactive, so the seven bottles I’ve already rated don’t qualify. In addition, as I’ve mentioned before, the rating system at Club W/Winc is simply a 1-5 star system; there is no option to enter tasting notes or other feedback.

If you’ve read my first two posts, you know that with both of my first two orders, I ran into some hiccups. (If you haven’t read them, why not? The links are right up there in the first paragraph!) You also know that customer service quickly and efficiently resolved the problems; said solutions including credits and free wine. Always a good thing! For my third order, I decided to let the Club W/Winc algorithm do its thing and select the wine for me, based on the preferences I entered when signing up, and enhanced by my previous orders and ratings. This time, my order was processed and delivered without a hitch! Third time’s a charm, right?

I received my order confirmation e-mail, and within a couple of days, the box of delicious goodness arrived at my office. The box included exactly the four bottles identified in my confirmation notice; two reds and two whites. Also included, as always, were glossy pages with information about the wines, tasting notes, and suggesting recipes for pairing.

Below are my reviews of the four wines from my third Club W order. All wines are $13.00:

Wondeful Wine Co. San Luis Obispo County White Blend 2014

Enjoyable white blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Viognior, and Muscat. Straw color with aromas of elderflower and pineapple. On the palate, flavors of white peach, with elderflower, pineapple, and apricot. Pleasantly dry with light acidity and fruit-forward profile, giving it a sweet sensation. Nice on its own, but also pairs well with foods, like baked chicken.

3.5 out of 5 stars (85 – 87 points)

Chommie Pinotage 2015

My first Pinotage. Purple color with a ruby rim. Aromas of raspberry and earthy musk. On the palate, bright red cherries and fresh raspberries excite the tongue with fresh acidity. The wine is medium bodied, with dry tannins and a medium finish. The finish is sour cherry and spice, and a return of the earthy/musky notes. It paired nicely with smothered beef & lamb patties.

3.0 out of 5 stars (82 – 84 points)

Più Gioia Pinot Grigio 2015

Straw color. Aromas and flavors of white peach and golden delicious apple. Light to medium body with a supple mouthfeel and balanced acidity. The finish is floral, white peach, and a bit of mineral. A nice Italian PG, better than the 2014 vintage (reviewed in Club W – Part II). Served well chilled.

4.0 out of 5 stars (88 – 91 points)

Nouvelle Ère Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2014

Ruby color in the glass. Aromas of blackberry bramble, black cherry, and cedar. On the palate, there are flavors of blackberry, raspberry, cherry, and spice. There is also a mineral/earth terroir note common in Right Bank Bordeaux. Medium body with bright acidity. Tannins show late, and are firm and tight, but soften with air. The finish lingers with dark berry, cedar, and spice. As with most Old World wines, it’s good on its own but is best with food – in this case a seared sirloin.

3.5 out of 5 stars (85 – 87 points)

So while the overall experience has improved, and was seamless with my third order, my opinion of the wines is pretty much the same. Good but not exceptional. There are a few gems worth repeating, but overall, there are comparable wines available for less money at retail wine shops. Let’s review the pros and cons, as I see them:

Pros:

Supporting the little guy
Info cards with recipes
Exploring unusual varietals
Availability of International wines
Personalized, hand-written thank you note!
They have some unique features that other online retailers and clubs do not. For example, it appears that once you’ve placed a bottle in your basket, it’s yours – even if you don’t complete and ship the order for a couple of months, and it otherwise sells out in the meantime.
Their customer service team is prompt, courteous, and efficient.
You can easily skip a month, or several, without cost or penalty.
Their packaging is exceptional.

Cons:

Inability to review wines; only assign them a 1-5 scale rating. It has been my experience that, for me, writing a review and describing the flavors and elements in the wine enhances my enjoyment of the wine. Rather than simply knocking back a glass, I become more attentive and contemplative, and enjoy the wine more.
I’d also like the ability to communicate with the independent winemakers. Placing a face, personality, and story with the name on the bottle makes enjoying wine a much more personal experience.
While their customer service team is very good, the fact that I had contact with, or from, their customer service team three times in my first two orders is telling. Hopefully it’s just growing pains and they’ll get the kinks worked out.

In conclusion, I do think Club W/Winc is a good place to experiment for those just getting into wine. Based on their marketing materials, their target audience is clearly Millennials who fit that category. They allow you to receive different wines from around the world (depending on individual state shipping restrictions) on a regular basis without having to put any thought into buying decisions. Nevertheless, those who have a broader, deeper level of wine experience may find these wines wanting for complexity and depth. If you’re new to wine, and like the simplicity and ease of this business model, I heartily recommend Club W/Winc!

Have you purchased wine from Club W/Winc? Let me know about your experience in the comments.

Cheers!

Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, California, Napa, New World, Old World, Paso Robles, Wine

Old World v. New World Cabernet: A Total Wine & More Event

September 17, 2016 Appetite for Wine

Total Wine & More bills itself as “America’s Wine Superstore.” I would have to agree. The first two times I walked into a Total Wine store, I walked out empty handed. It was simply overwhelming. Those of you fortunate enough to live near one of their 135 stores in 18 states know what I mean. They stock more wine, beer, and spirits on their shelves than anywhere else I’ve ever seen. Simply walking through the store can be disorienting to the uninitiated. I recommend hiring a guide. If you’re ever in the Sacramento area, drop me a line and for a small fee (a bottle of sumpin’ sumpin’) I will gladly help you navigate the labyrinth.

Like so many retailers these days, Total Wine has a loyalty rewards program; they call the Total Discovery Program. Basically, you earn points for each dollar spent in the store. You start at the “Select” level, which basically gets you coupons. Rack up enough points and you level up to the “Reserve”, then “Grand Reserve” levels. At these levels, you receive discounts on products and classes, and invitations to complimentary Members-Only events.

But this post is not intended to be free advertising for this magical place. Rather, it is about an event I attended there yesterday evening. Apparently, even though most of my wine comes to me via online retailers, I buy enough product from Total Wine to have recently achieved “Reserve” level status. Thus, I received an invitation to their Sip & Mingle event, The Great Cab Debate: Old World vs. New World Cabernet Sauvignon. Not one to turn down an opportunity to taste world-class wine for free, I naturally submitted my RSVP accepting the invitation.

As one might imagine, this event pitted four Left Bank (Cabernet based) Bordeaux against four California Cabernet wines, in the spirit of this year’s 40^th anniversary of the famous Judgment of Paris tasting. This was not a blind tasting, and as the name of the event, Sip & Mingle, implies, it was as much a social evening as a wine tasting. At these events, participants are encouraged to chat, socialize, and nibble on the snack foods provided. Sure, there were a couple of serious wine tasters present, who stood quietly in a corner sipping, spitting, and jotting notes without interacting much. But for the most part, the 20 or so people there relaxed at the tables and enjoyed the wine and conversation. It was certainly a pleasant way to spend a couple of hours on a Friday evening.

Now I know what you’re thinking: “What about the wine?” Ah, yes, the wine. Most of my Bordeaux experience has been Right Bank, Merlot based, so I was anxious to try some of the prestigious Left Bank Chateau creations. These hailed from the Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Pessac-Léognan, and Pauillac appellations. The California wines included one from Paso Robles, and three from the general Napa Valley AVA. In order of recommended tasting, here’s what I thought of them:

Sextant Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2014

Brick red, ruby rim. Nose of blackberry and red currant. Flavors of blackberry, red currant, black pepper and spice. A little hot but smooth tannins. Long, spicy finish.

Retail $19.99

4.0 out of 5 stars (88-91 points)

Château Pierre de Montignac Médoc Cru Bourgeois 2011

Brick red, ruby rim. Plum and earth on the nose. Flavors of raspberry, sour cherry, soft oak, and spice. Bone dry with firm tannins and a medium finish.

Retail $19.99

4.0 out of 5 stars (88-91 points)

Courtney Benham Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2011

Purple color with brick rim. On the nose, green bell pepper, light blackberry, and dusty earth. Blackberry, black plum flavors with soft, smooth tannins and light acidity. Medium finish with berry and white pepper.

Retail $24.99

3.5 out of 5 stars (85-87 points)

Château Landat Vieilles Vignes Haut-Médoc 2012

Ruby color. Nose of raspberry and blackberry. Flavors of ripe raspberry, plum, red currant, earth, and spice. Supple tannins, medium acidity, and a medium, spicy finish.

Retail $29.99

4.0 out of 5 stars (88-91 points)

Christophe Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2012

Purple color with ruby rim. Aromas of ripe blackberry and soft oak. On the palate juicy blackberry, cassis, and white pepper. Super soft tannins and light acidity. Medium finish of dark berry.

Retail $35.99

4.5 out of 5 stars (91-94 points)

Château Larrivet Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2009

Deep purple color with ruby rim. Nose is fig, mushroom, and cedar. Flavors of ripe blackberry, cassis, black pepper, and black plum. Soft, velvety tannins and balanced acidity with a long, fruity, spicy finish.

Retail $39.99

4.0 out of 5 stars (88-91 points)

Baldacci IV Four Sons Fraternity Napa Valley Red 2012

Deep, inky purple color. Aromas of blackberry, bramble, cassis, and a hint of licorice. On the palate, blackberry, cassis, black pepper, and spice. Rich and fruity, with soft tannins and balanced acidity. Long finish with berry, cocoa, and spice. My favorite of the evening.

Retail $46.99

4.5 out of 5 stars (91-94 points)

Château d’Armailhac Grand Cru Classé Pauillac 2012

Ruby color with brick rim. On the nose, herbal notes with green bell pepper and blackberry. Flavors of blackberry, bell pepper, earth, spice, and cedar. Still young, the tannins are edgy and its a little acidic. This one needs a few more years in the cellar.

Retail $44.99

3.5 out of 5 stars (85-57 points)

This was a fun evening. Although not a blind tasting, it was interesting to compare Old World v. New World Cabernet Sauvignon based wines. Overall, as in ’76, Napa won the evening. At least for me! I look forward to my next invitation to a Total Wine & More Sip & Mingle event!

Franc Dusak, nakedwines.com, Viognier, Wine

Review: Franc Dusak Viognier Sonoma Valley 2015

September 14, 2016September 14, 2016 Appetite for Wine

Awhile back I reviewed Franc Dusak’s Sonoma Zinfandel 2013, and as I usually try to do, included a brief introduction to Franc himself. I’ve had a number of Franc’s wines, and have been over-the-moon for all of them. I recently tried his Sonoma Valley Viognier 2015, and this white wine is no exception. It is spectacular!

Without belaboring the point, and considering my crazy-busy schedule right now which has severely cut into my blogging time, here is the review I posted on the NakedWines.com site for this amazing Viognier:

I am now convinced that my original aversion to Viognier resulted from low quality, rather than the varietal itself. Every NakedWines.com Viognier I have tried has been simply amazing! Franc’s 2015 is no exception, and Viognier is now one of my favorite white wines!

Light straw color, with aromas of honeysuckle, white peach, and elderflower. On the palate, Golden delicious apple, white peach, elderflower, and a hint of fresh pineapple, mingling with fresh, light acidity; it’s like drops of gold on the tongue. Light to medium bodied and pleasantly dry, this is a stellar Viognier.

Served with Chicken Breast with Basil-Wine Sauce (the Viognier is in the sauce!) it is an amazing, heavenly experience.

4.5 out of 5 hearts (92 – 94 points)

Angel Price: $11.99 (still currently in stock – hurry to get yours before it’s gone!)

NakedWines.com frees talented winemakers from the burden of marketing and sales, and allows them to focus on what they do best: make unbelievably delicious wines. These are all small batch, boutique wines, that Angels (members) can purchase for amazing, discounted prices. If this Viognier, or any of the dozens of other phenomenal available wines, sound like your cup of tea, follow this link for a voucher worth $100 off your initial order of $160 or more. Free wine? It doesn’t get better than that!

Bubbles, MWWC, Variety, Wine

Life in a Bubble – #MWWC27

September 9, 2016 Appetite for Wine

It’s that time again! The Monthly Wine Writing Challenge!

The theme for #MWWC27 is “Bubbles.” Like probably every other person out there in the blogosphere, my mind immediately went to Champagne, or any other sparkling wine. There are many to choose from; Cava, Prosecco, Cremant, California Sparkling, and so on. Then, like probably every other wine writer out there, I thought: “too obvious; everybody will be writing about that.” Ah, but then again, like Vizzini, from The Princess Bride (only the best movie ever made), perhaps I can outwit my opponents by doing exactly what they expect me to do!

But lest I get involved in a land war in Asia (watch the clip, it’ll make sense), I decided to write from what I know and let the words flow as they may. This is a decision made largely due to the fact that I have not a lot of experience with wines that tickle the nose. You see, many members of my family get headaches after drinking sparkling wine, so I don’t often buy it. We can debate whether the bubbles cause the headaches, or that they result from some other cause. The fact remains that sparkling wine rarely makes an appearance in my home. I do try to keep a bottle of Prosecco or Cava on hand for those unexpected special occasions, or a spontaneous brunch in need of a Mimosa, but that’s about it.

So what is there to say about bubbles, then? Life.

We humans are a predictable lot. We like routine, and take comfort in the familiar. We take the same route to work every day. We shop at the same stores, and eat at the same restaurants, because we know what to expect. I even know people who will order the same thing off a menu every time they go to a particular restaurant. They don’t like change, or trying new things. We like to live our lives in big, comfortable, predictable bubbles. Boring! Yet many people approach wine in the same way.

While there are at least 10,000 grape varieties in the world, realistically about 1,300 are used in commercial wine production. So why, then, do so many people “only drink Chardonnay”? Or Cabernet Sauvignon? Or Pinot Noir? Because that is the comfort bubble in which they live. They know what to expect. They are predictable. These people are really missing out! There is so much variety out there; so many flavors to experience and enjoy, why limit yourself?

I love variety. When I go to a favorite restaurant, I like to try different things each time. It’s the same with wine. Sure, I have my favorite, go-to varietals, but why limit oneself? I love variety! Sure, a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon will pair with my steak, but what about a Chilean Carménère? Shall I open a familiar Sauvignon Blanc this warm summer evening, or a different and exciting Grüner Veltliner? I recently submitted my application to the Wine Century Club. Yes, it’s a real thing! All you have to do for membership is try at least 100 different varietals. And you know what? Blends count! It’s really not that daunting a challenge, if you are willing to get out of your bubble and try new things.

Life bubbles are limiting; restricting. They only allow you to experience what is within reach and safe. I encourage you to step out of your bubble and try something new. The next time you are in your local wine shop, or better yet, the unfamiliar wine shop in the next town over, instead of reaching for that familiar bottle of Chateau Drink Often, try something adventurous and new. This is my challenge: Explore. Experience. Enjoy life outside your bubble.

Box Wine, Shiraz, Trader Joe's, Wine

“Box of Wine”, A Review of Trader Joe’s Block Shiraz Wine in a Box

August 22, 2016August 22, 2016 Appetite for Wine

A co-worker of mine has an interesting, daily tradition. Much like the way some people might the start the day with a greeting such as “Top of the morning”, Eric ends each day with a unique parting phrase. He expresses, to each of us in the office, a good evening, with his wish for a bounty of our preferred adult beverage. Ever generous with his blessings, he does not suggest a mere glass of this or that. No, my beer-drinking co-worker Eric shares his good will to Linda with “bottle of vodka”, and to Jennifer with “bottle of rum.” Knowing my penchant for the nectar of the grape, he would always wish me a “bottle of wine.” Until recently, when it came to his attention that wine can also come in a box. Now his evening salutation to me is “box of wine!” to which I respond, “and a case of beer for you, sir.”

Now, truth be told, the only “box of wine” I’ve ever had much interest in is the 6 or 12-bottle cases I have delivered to my office. When ordering from an online merchant, it is much more reliable to receive shipments there, where there is always an adult to sign. I am aware there are some companies which prohibit such practices, having worked for one not too long ago. However, the small company where I now work is much more laid-back. In fact, the owner of the company has his wine club shipments delivered there, too! Goose; gander.

But I digress. Throughout my life, I’ve observed that when it comes to hobbies and interests, I have either time, or money, but rarely both concurrently. Recently, I’ve found myself in a situation in which I have neither in great supply. Yet my passion for wine remains unabated, so I consolidated my search for affordable wine into my weekly sortie to Trader Joe’s. I’ve known TJ’s to be a reliable source of quality wine at reasonable prices. I’ve also known that TJ’s carries a line of boxed wines, suspiciously inexpensive. I’ve even seen some favorable reviews of said boxes of wine. So with some trepidation, I hoisted a 3-liter box of Australian Shiraz into my cart and headed for the checkout. After arriving home and storing the weekly provisions, I dug out the tap and drew my first glass from a box of wine. Here’s my review, posted on Vivino:

After reading a few favorable reviews, I decided to give boxed wine a go. I was pleasantly surprised. This Aussie Shiraz, a Trader Joe’s exclusive, is pretty good. Not overly complex, but what do you expect for $3/bottle? The 3-liter box (equal to 4 bottles) costs just $12.

Ruby/purple color. Aromas of blackberry and black cherry. Flavors of ripe blackberry, red currant, blueberry, fig, and spice, with a little oak on the finish. Soft and smooth, but as I said, not a lot of depth or complexity. Since it keeps up to six weeks (if you’re an amateur) it’s good for a mid-week after-work glass, and maybe for the in-laws. 🙂 The only real challenge is self-regulation. “Was that 5 glasses or 6? Do you feel lucky? Well, do ya punk?”

3.5 Stars (85-87 points)

Of course that crack about serving this to the in-laws is just a joke. Hehe. OK, Nancy? We good? And for those of you too young to get the reference, the quote at the end is homage to “Dirty Harry.”

In any event, I was fairly impressed with the Block Shiraz, especially given the price point. My local TJ’s also carries a California Cabernet Sauvignon and a California Sauvignon Blanc. I’m given to understand the Block label also produces an Australian Chardonnay, but it wasn’t in stock when I was there. For a reasonably good weeknight wine, at an amazing price, head to your neighborhood Trader Joe’s and give this a try!

Merlo Family Estate Vineyards, Trinity County, Trinity Lakes AVA, Wine

Lesser Known AVAs: Trinity County

August 8, 2016 Appetite for Wine

Merlo Family Vineyards — Image Credit: merlovineyards.com

Trinity County has the distinction of being the third leg of the infamous “Emerald Triangle,” the prolific and prosperous Northern California marijuana growing region. Landlocked, it is somewhat less famous than its coastal neighbors, Mendocino and Humboldt counties. It is also much more remote and difficult to access, which contributes to its mystery and intrigue. The primary legal industry (at the time of this writing, cultivation of marijuana is still illegal) is timber, although that has been in decline for some years. Fortunately, Trinity County boasts some very rugged terrain with a variety of rich soils, the result of centuries of geologic upheaval, which are excellent for growing vitis vinifera.

The official American Viticultural Area (AVA) located within Trinity County is the Trinity Lakes AVA. There are only two wineries located within the Trinity Lakes AVA, (Alpen Cellars and One Maple Estate Vineyards & Winery), but there are others in the greater Trinity County region. The entirety of Trinity County is not yet recognized as an AVA yet, but it is just a matter of time. The rugged beauty of this part of the state is breathtaking, but takes real dedication to make the journey. There simply is no easy way to get there! Trinity County may never achieve anywhere near the wine-tourism traffic as Napa or Sonoma, but one wonders if that’s a bad thing. The trip from Napa or Sonoma to greater Trinity County is anywhere from four to six hours by car. If you are up it, you will be rewarded by the stunning scenery and fantastic wines!

Fortunately for the less adventurous among us, we don’t have to travel hours of backroads and switchbacks. One Trinity County winery has its tasting room solidly rooted on the floor of the Sacramento Valley: Merlo Family Estate Vineyards. Located inside The Old Sugar Mill in Clarksburg, just minutes from Lodi, Merlo produces some outstanding wines. (Full disclosure: I am a member of the Merlo Wine Club.) I recently stopped in to pick up my club order, and tasted through their current releases. These are some amazing wines: a lightly oaked, refined Chardonnay; a light and crisp Syrah Rosé; and some blockbuster, big, bold reds. Their signature red blend, Blackbird (the family name Merlo means Blackbird in Italian) is an addictive 50/50 blend of Syrah and Zinfandel. So addictive, I’ve heard that it’s sometimes lovingly referred to as “Crackbird.”

I spent the better part of an hour chatting with proprietor, Ray Merlo, in between other customers. Ray is an engaging, personable man, who is passionate about his wine, and dedicated to educating people to help enhance their enjoyment. Ray is committed to quality; so much so that he pulled his 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from the market for several years because he felt it just wasn’t ready. For only a few vintages, Ray was able to procure some high quality Napa fruit, which he hand-harvested in the wee hours of the morning, and then rushed to his winery in Trinity County for crush and vinification. Of such high quality were these grapes that they required years of bottle aging before the wine matured enough to really enjoy. He only recently reintroduced it, and from the generous tasted I had, I can say it was well worth the wait. Rich and full bodied, with classic Napa Cabernet aromas and flavors, this 2006 is amazingly smooth. You’d expect to pay $75 to $100 for a Napa Cab of this quality, but retail price is only $59, and club members pay only $48.

Below are my reviews of the current release portfolio. Some are pretty brief; I was enjoying the conversation and didn’t take copious notes…

Merlo Family Estate Chardonnay 2012

Lightly oaked allowing the fruit to take center stage. Apple and pear with some grapefruit notes. Soft mouthfeel and just a hint of toasted oak on the finish.

4.0 Stars (88-91 points) $20 Retail/$16 Club

Merlo Family Estate Syrah Rosé 2014

Light, crisp rose. Medium pink color, with Flavors of strawberry, raspberry, and watermelon. A nice, dry rose for those hot summer days!

4.0 Stars (88-91 points) $18 Retail/$15 Club

Merlo Family Estate Pinot Noir 2012

Rich, earthy Pinot Noir, in the classic NorCal style. Purple color with ruby rim. Aromas of ripe plums and spice. Flavors of ripe plum, blueberry, cherry, and earth with a lingering finish of dark fruit and soft earth tones.

4.0 Stars (88-91 points) $27 Retail/$22 Club

Merlo Family Estate Blackbird (NV)

Delicious blend of Syrah and Zinfandel. Smooth tannins reveal flavors of blackberry, blueberry, and spice. Nice, long, spicy finish.

4.5 Stars (92-94 points) $18 Retail/$15 Club

Merlo Family Estate Syrah 2012

Deep and brooding, this is a rich, full bodied Syrah. Inky purple, with aromas of blackberry and spice. Flavors of dark berry, ripe blueberry, black pepper, and oak. The wine coats the mouth and lingers with an earthy, spicy finish.

4.5 Stars (92-94 points) $25 Retail/$20 Club

Merlo Family Estate Zinfandel 2011

Big, bold, juicy, and spicy. This is an “in your face” wine that doesn’t hold back. Ripe, juicy blackberry and black cherry mingle with spicy black pepper. The tannins are big and chewy, balanced with light acidity. The finish hangs around awhile to remind you of just how amazing that last sip was, inviting you to take another sip.

4.5 Stars (92-94 points) $25 Retail/$20 Club

I hope you get the opportunity to try some of these exceptional Trinity County wines, and that you’re inspired to get out and explore some Lesser Known AVAs.