I’m not normally a big Viognier fan. There are just too many low quality offerings out there that are off balance, and often the characteristic floral notes come off as just sweet. When I do buy Viognier, it’s usually for white sangria. So when this bottle arrived in a sample pack for review, I was a little apprehensive.
Benjamin Darnault produces wine for NakedWines.com. His flagship wine, Minervois, a Grenache-based blend from the Languedoc-Roussillon region, is an Angel favorite. He also produces some stunning Rhône wines. I’ve had several of these reds, and have always been impressed, so this gave me hope that his 100% Viognier would be a winner, too. Here’s what I thought when I gave it a try:
Many of the reviews here [on the NakedWines.com website] have said this is a great wine for a hot day. Well, it’s 106F today in my neck of NorCal, so this seems to be the day to give this a go!
Clear, straw color in the glass. The aromas…oh, my…the aromas! I could smell the floral and citrus aromas from, literally, 3 feet away as I poured! Honeysuckle, elderflower, white grapefruit, and mild apricot explode on the nose. On the palate, the floral notes mingle with apricot, mango, grapefruit, and lemon. Bright acidity gives it zip, while a creaminess at the back of the tongue softens it and provides a medium-full mouthfeel. The finish goes on and on with yellow citrus flavors.
Viognier is probably the only varietal my wife enjoys more than me, and I love this one! Crisp, refreshing, and delicious, this is a great hot-weather quencher, that also goes well with a variety of foods. Yum.
4.5 out of 5 Hearts (92-94 points)
Angel Price: $10.49
If this sounds like your kind of wine, and you’d like to try this or any of the dozens of other small batch, high quality wines available from NakedWines.com, click here for a voucher worth $100 off your first order of $160 or more. You’ll be glad you did!
Here’s a great post by Ian Abrahams, from the Bristol Wine Blog. As I described some time ago in my post, “Bordeaux, It’s Not a Grape“, Ian highlights one of the major differences between Old World and New World wines; that Old World wines generally carry the name of their region of origin, rather than the grape varietals used. In his post, Ian discusses the Spanish wine, Rioja. I hope you enjoy Ian’s post as much as I did.
Solitude. Wine. Solitude and wine. At first glance, those two words don’t seem to go together. Isn’t wine meant to be enjoyed in the company of others; friends and loved ones? Of course it is! And don’t they say drinking alone is a sign you might have a problem?
Yes, they do, but what do they know? And just who are “they,” anyway? “They” are everywhere, telling us what we should and should not be doing. “They” aren’t very fun at all. But I digress.
This is my entry for the Monthly Wine Writing Challenge, #MWWC26. As last month’s winner, Beth, the Traveling Wine Chick, had the honor of selecting this month’s theme. And she chose “solitude.” Challenge. Accepted.
This month’s theme was announced on the first day of my 30-day trip to Québec City. It turned out to be a timely announcement. Québec City is in the Canadian province of Québec, which is commonly known as French Canada. In Québec, the people speak French. I don’t.
Some of my first thoughts on solitude came during my first few days of my trip, as I struggled to find what I needed in the Super Marché. Shopping in an unfamiliar grocery store is stressful enough, but there is a sense of being all alone in a crowd when you don’t speak or read the language. It certainly gave me a much greater appreciation, and sympathy, for immigrants to the U.S. who are not English speaking. Fortunately, most of the people there do speak at least some English (Canada is, after all, officially a bilingual country), and are very accommodating, so I was able to survive. (In my defense, I tried to learn French before our trip. I really tried! I did manage to pick up a few helpful terms and phrases, but darn it, I’m old!) In true stereotypical Canadian fashion, I even had several people apologize for their poor English. I always responded that their English is far better than my French! Then we laughed together. Laughter is, indeed, a universal language.
But this isn’t the MWC. It’s the MWWC, with the emphasis on the first W…wine! So, whereas wine and solitude don’t naturally seem to go together, please allow me this opportunity to wax poetic.
I submit to you, dear reader, that wine and solitude are actually symbiotic. While it is true that wine is meant to be enjoyed with others, one of the unique and magical truths about wine is that everybody experiences it differently. Pour a taste from the same bottle for 10 different people (OK, let’s assume it’s a magnum), and each will describe different aspects of the wine. Some with limited wine experience may taste only fermented grape juice, while others might describe a host of fruit, floral, herbal, or mineral notes. There are no right or wrong answers; the enjoyment is in each individual’s own, unique, subjective experience.
Take this concept to another level with me. We’ve (hopefully) established that a group of individuals experience the same wine differently. In much the same way, an individual within that group will experience different wines in different ways. It is in the enjoyment and ethereal experience of a given wine that the individual drinker is transported to his or her own, unique place. A place of solitude.
Open a bottle of Bordeaux, and share it with a loved one. Allow the aromas to invade your senses. See the color in the glass as you swirl the wine. Now, to the tasting. That first sip, rich and decadent, may transport you to the rolling hills of the French countryside. You imagine are walking in the vineyard; the cool evening breeze in your hair; the gravelly soil crunching underfoot. You are utterly alone in this charming place. Solitude. Your partner experiences something completely different. Her Bordeaux fantasy involves a Parisian bistro; an outdoor table on the sidewalk, the bustle of the people passing by; the charming waiter with his attentive gaze, ready to refill the glass at a moment’s notice; and the delightful meal with which to enjoy the wine. Solitude.
It’s a hot, summer afternoon. You open a chilled bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. The straw color immediately cools you as you anticipate the cold, crisp refreshment. Take that first sip – instantly you are carried away to the soft, warm sands of a tropical beach; relaxing in a chaise with a good book. The sun is warm on your skin, the sand soft and warm on your feet. You are utterly relaxed. Solitude. Yet your partner has been whisked away to a cool mountain lake; on the porch of a cabin overlooking the rippling water. Hungry trout beckon, but rising to grab the fishing pole would merely disrupt the moment. Solitude.
Wine is an enchanting, magical beverage. Depending on your circumstances, it can bring relief to a stressful day, enjoyment to a social or family gathering, or release you to indulge in your own unique, relaxing, peaceful solitude. Different people, different experience. Different wine, different destination. Where will your next glass of wine take you?
SNAP! We’re back! Still not convinced? Are you worried about the whole “drinking alone” stigma? Do you have a pet? If so, you’re not drinking alone! If not, and you are interested in adopting and being a good pet parent, then get thee to the nearest SPCA and rescue a deserving dog or cat.
There are hundreds of dogs and cats that need a loving home, and you will never drink alone again! (Note: I do not advocate adopting a pet simply as a drinking buddy. If you are not willing to devote the love, time, and attention needed to care for a pet, please don’t.)
Now sit back, pour a glass of whatever strikes your mood, let it take you where it will, and bask in your solitude!
The Parliament Building and Fontaine de Tourny, a gift from Bordeaux, France
We are nearing the end of our journey to Québec City. It has been an exciting adventure, and the longest time we’ve ever been away from home. We are both fortunate to have jobs that allow us to check into work remotely, and that Colette, our Cavalier King Charles Spaniel travels so well!
A little nervous about her first flight, but she did great!
One of our primary goals in taking this extended trip, a variation from the standard American two-week vacation, was to immerse ourselves in a different culture and, as best we can, “live like a local.” While 30 days clearly isn’t sufficient time to fully integrate, particularly when one does not speak the local language with anything remotely approaching fluency, we do feel that we settled in nicely and got to see the goings on beyond the typical tourist. We quickly found a local, independent café, and within a few days the barista had memorized my wife’s order. There are few things that make one feel more like a local than having a barista or bartender recognize you when you walk in, and immediately start making your drink for you.
Past vacations for us have typically encompassed only one weekend in a locale, so we were only able to experience the events of that Saturday and Sunday. By living here a full month, we had the pleasure of watching weekends come and go, and the variety of activities with them. One weekend, a BBQ Fest popped up literally across the street from our condo. Another weekend, we encountered an outdoor circus a few blocks away, and we enjoyed watching as children learned how to walk a tightrope or swing from a trapeze. We were here to help the province of Québec celebrate her 408th birthday one weekend, and then participate in the 149th Canadian national Independence Day the following weekend. We got to see all the sights, museums, and attractions we had planned, without rushing or concern for the weather. If it was raining on a day we planned an outing, we just changed our plans. Québec is a great walking city. Everything we wanted to see was within 3 miles or so, albeit much of it uphill! The upside (pun intended) is that the walk home was mostly downhill!
Of course, there’s wine! Small but emerging, the Québec region is producing some interesting, high quality wines. Relying mostly on hybrids and clones, local winemakers are making tasty table wines; both reds and whites. Fruit forward but not jammy, these wines are structured and balanced. They tend to finish with an earthy, musky, funky essence, which I suspect is terroir-driven. Native grapes have been described as “foxy” tasting, and I think that may be similar to the funkiness I find on the finish. Those who like a hearty, earthy Pinot Noir will really enjoy these wines. I strongly encourage anyone who is interested, to seek out Québécois wines and give them a try! If your local shop can’t procure them (most Québec wines are consumed locally), you’ll just have to make the trip to this enchanting province!
A discussion Québécois wine isn’t complete without mentioning their wheelhouse wine product. The Ice Wines and Late Harvest wines are spectacular! These are the wines that put this region on the wine map, and we enjoyed them a lot. Both Ice Wines and Late Harvest wines are very, very sweet. They are enjoyable as after-dinner quaffs, and a little goes a long way! Fortunately, many of these are widely available in the U.S.
As I mentioned in Québec City, Week 1, other than at restaurants or bars, most wine (and all liquor) must be purchased through the government owned and operated SAQ (Société des alcools du Québec) stores. I got to be something of a regular here, too. Store sizes vary, but in the larger stores, selection of European and Southern Hemisphere wines is pretty impressive. I was a little disappointed in the representation of wines from the U.S., but then, I can get those at home. The prices of the U.S. wines were surprising, too; some nearly double what I pay in the states. However, European and Southern Hemisphere wine prices are quite attractive! During our time here, in addition to the Canadian wines, we’ve enjoyed wines from France, Spain, Italy, Greece, Argentina, and Chile. Only a couple of the wines I bought here are available at my home Total Wine & More or BevMo stores, so we’ve definitely made the most of our travels! I’ve included reviews in each of my weekly posts. Here’s what we enjoyed during Week 4:
I’m no Gewürztraminer expert, (my reference is Fetzer) but I one is the best I’ve had.
Soft, golden straw in the glass. Aromas of apricot and honeysuckle. On the palate, honeysuckle, elderberry, and floral dominate. The acidity is soft and the mouthfeel, oh so smooth. The apricot is there, just below the surface, with gooseberry and pear. More sweet than spicy. The finish is medium long, with just a bit of classic spice, and that soft, smooth honey. Yum.
4.5 stars (92-94 points)
SAQ Store, $19.95 CAD (approx. $15.25 USD)
Vicente Gandia Hoya De Cadenas Reserva Tempranillo Utiel-Requena 2012
Rich, dark, Ruby color in the glass. On the nose, an explosion of ripe cherries and spice! This continues on the palate, along with some raspberry and cedar. Tannins are a little edgy at first, but soften with exposure to air. Acidity is balanced, creating a wine that pairs with food, but is also pleasant to drink on its own. On the lingering finish the cherry continues with hints of black pepper and oak.
4.0 stars (88-91 points)
SAQ Store, $12.95 CAD (approx. $9.90 USD)
Fleur de Sauvignon Bordeaux 2014
Gold color in the glass. Aromas of apricot and white peach, some pineapple, with a hint of herbs. On the tongue there are flavors of apricot, peach, pineapple, and honeysuckle, as well as fresh-cut hay, and a little green bell pepper. Very dry with minimal sweetness, but bright acidity. The finish is brief, with some tropical fruit and herbal notes.
3.0 stars (82-84 points)
SAQ Store, $14.90 CAD (approx. $11.39 USD)
Carone “Venice” Cabernet Severnyi Reserve 2012
My favorite of all the Québec wines I tried! A Cabernet Sauvignon clone, originally bred to withstand the harsh Russian winter, it does well here as well. According to the sales rep at the Farmer’s Market, this is the only 100% Cabernet produced in Québec.
Deep purple color in the glass. Classic Cabernet aromas and flavors of blackberry, cassis, and oak. Medium to full bodied with smooth tannins with balanced acidity. It’s lighter than traditional Cabernet Sauvignon, but still has all the flavor and structure. The lingering finish is enticing with dark berry, vanilla, and oak. This wine pairs well with steak, or any other rich, juicy meat.
4.5 stars ( 92-94 points)
Marché du Vieux-Port Farmer’s Market, $28.00 CAD, (approx. $21.62 USD)
Frescobaldi Pater Sangiovese 2014
Bright ruby color in the glass. Aromas of fresh raspberries and cherries. On the palate, those flavors mingle with blackberry, plum, soft oak, and spice. Tannins are soft and smooth, and balanced with fresh acidity. A solid offering from a reliable producer, this paired very well with Farmer’s Market fresh basil pasta and marinara sauce.
4.0 stars (88-91 points)
SAQ Store, $15.95 CAD, (approx. $12.31 USD)
Graffigna Elevation Reserve Red Blend 2012
A blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tannat, and Bonarda. Deep, brooding purple color. Aromas of dark berry and smoke. Flavors of blackberry, black cherry, raspberry, blueberry, and oak. Firm, chewy tannins with lively acidity. A perfect pairing for grilled flank steak. Long, smoky finish with lingering dark berry.
4.0 Stars (88-91 points)
Auberge Louis-Hebert, $8.50 CAD per glass (approx. $6.59 USD)
Deep purple color. Initial aromas of blackberry, bramble, and baking spice. Flavors of blackberry, cassis, cherry, and oak. Sharp tannins, with medium acidity and medium body. The finish is black fruit and black pepper, with some vanilla. The wine has good flavor and structure, but needs a little more time to allow the tannins to soften.
3.5 stars (85-87 points)
SAQ Store, $12.95 CAD, approx. $10.07 USD
As we wrap up our trip, we are off to Montreal for a few days. Then it’s back home to reality once again. Thanks for following along!
Week three of our Québec City adventure saw the arrival of our daughter and 9-year old grandson. With a fresh infusion of awe and wonder, we set out to enjoy even more sights and adventures. We hopped on the red, hop on-hop off bus for an open-air, second deck look around the city, affording us views we had not seen from street level.
Although touristy, we generally try to take one of those double-decker bus tours when we arrive in a new city. They provide a great overview of the city, allow you to get your bearings a bit, and help you decide which sights you want to explore in more detail. While on the bus, my grandson spied the exact t-shirt he wanted to get as a souvenir of his trip. After disembarking, we made our way to the store where he got his t-shirt, and I found (and bought) mine!
Thursday was my wife’s birthday, so thousands of people from all over Québec came over for a fête on the Plains of Abraham. There was a huge concert, featuring French and Québécois performers with music ranging from country, to folk, to rock. It was all in French, and we didn’t know the songs, but music is a universal language and everyone there had a great time! After the 2+ hour concert, they even had a fireworks show! Oh, Friday happened to be Québec’s 408th birthday, so the fête could have possibly been for that. Like I said, it was all in French!
On Saturday, we paid a visit to the Aquarium du Québec. It’s a fun family destination, and while small in comparison to some aquariums, they really pack in the interest and delight. Dory and Nemo were even there! Among other attractions were the two baby walruses. Apparently, breeding walruses in captivity is incredibly difficult. Worldwide, only seven pups have been born in captivity since 1930! As luck would have it, two of them were born recently right here in Québec!
Perhaps the highlight of the week, aside from my wife’s birthday, of course, was the Changing of the Guard at the Citadelle de Québec. Built by the British, starting in 1820, to defend against anticipated attacked by the Americans, the Citadelle is now home to the Royal 22nd Regiment. Located on the highest point in the city, the views are amazing! The Changing of the Guard ceremony is similar to the one in London, which I missed when I visited there a few years ago. The Royal 22nd Regiment’s version includes their mascot, Batisse the Goat. This is a tradition that has continued for decades. The current goat is Batisse XI, and is a direct descendant of Batisse I, a gift from Queen Elizabeth in 1955. They continue the lineage, and Batisse XIII is currently in training!
Changing of the Guard
And yes, there was wine this week, too! Here’s what we had, in no particular order:
Borsao Crianza 2013
Red blend of Grenache Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Tempranillo. Ruby red with aromas of raspberry and blackberry. Medium body but structured, with distinctive oak flavors along with the berry. The finish is medium with dark berry, oak, and mineral notes.
4.0 Stars (88-91 points)
Le Grand Café, $7.75 CAD per glass (approx. $5.95 USD)
13th Street Winery Burger Blend 2013
A blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay Noir. Delightfully juicy and delicious. Medium red color with red raspberry and cranberry, with some mild earthiness and spice. With lively acidity and mild tannins, this is a great wine with…well…burgers!
4.5 Stars (92-94 points)
Chez Victor, $9.25 CAD per glass (approx. $7.09 USD)
Trimbach Pinot Blanc 2015
I’ve been reading a lot about Pinot Blanc lately. It seems to be riding a tide of popularity, so naturally I wanted to try it.
Light straw color. Initial aromas of unripe apricot and almond notes. On the tongue, tangy acidity wakes up the tongue with flavors of lemon, grapefruit, red apple, apricot, and mild almond, with a hint of spice and mineral on the finish. Slightly creamy mouthfeel, yet dry and brisk, it’s quite refreshing and paired very well with our dinner of seared chicken with tarragon sauce.
4.0 Stars (88-91 points)
SAQ Store, $19.55 CAD (approx. $15.18 USD)
Folonari Valpolicella 2014
Great pizza wine! Ruby red color. Aromas of blackberry bramble and spice. Flavors of ripe raspberry, black pepper, plum, and oak are balanced with smooth yet structured tannins and bright acidity. Long, zippy finish of raspberry and Bing cherry. Amazing value! Yes, I will have another glass, thank you!
4.5 Stars (92-94 points)
SAQ Store, $15.90 CAD (approx. $12.35 USD)
Vieux Chateau Renaissance Bordeuax 2014
Ruby color with red brick rim. Aromas of blackberry bramble, raspberry, and new oak. On the palate, blackberry, cassis, raspberry, and oak, with a hint of eucalyptus or mint on the finish. Quite dry, with a medium body and light acidity.
I don’t normally think of Bordeaux with pizza, but it says, right on the back label, “Ideal pour accompagner vos pizzas…” And they’re right! This was a great pairing with our combination pizza.
4.0 Stars (88-91 points)
SAQ Store, $14.55 CAD (approx. $11.39 USD)
Roquebrun Col de L’Orb Saint-Chinian 2015
A very nice Rose for a hot day. Tasty and refreshing, delightfully dry, and not overly complex. It has a deep salmon color. Initial aromas are soft strawberry and raspberry essence. On the palate, there are flavors of strawberry and raspberry, with a bit of floral, and a hint of fresh fig on the finish. The acidity is light and zesty, leading to a medium finish.
3.5 Stars (85-87 points)
SAQ Store, $14.10 CAD (approx. $10.92 USD)
I also found another Québec wine that I really like a lot! I only had a sample at the farmer’s market, but it’s sure tasty. I’m waiting to review it until I can have a proper glassful, so stay tuned!
Another fantastic week in and around Québec City! We did a lot more touristy stuff this week, and learned a great deal about the history of the city and region. I have been fascinated by the parallel history between Québec and the American colonies, which include many overlapping historical figures. Growing up and going to school in the U.S., I didn’t receive the Canadian version! Canadian history is just as colorful as that in the U.S., which fierce military battles and political upheaval. Yet in many ways, it is much more complex, with regime changes yet lasting influences, as well as peaceful, diplomatic maneuvering. Whereas the U.S. fought and won its independence with tremendous loss of life, Canada’s independence, albeit nearly 100 years later and still as part of the British Commonwealth, was achieved in 1867 without a shot being fired. Next year, Canada celebrates her 150th birthday. Still, it wasn’t until 1931 that Canada achieved its own sovereignty, and amazingly, Canada didn’t adopt its first constitution until 1982! Much of Canada’s character as a nation has come about because of social evolution, not revolution.
Our excursions this week included a walking tour of the Old City, a bus tour to nearby Montmorency Falls and the Basilica du Sainte-Anne-de-Beuapré, and a Sunday morning horse-drawn carriage ride around the city. Our walking tour guide, Michael, as Irish as they come, was informative and entertaining. He showed us sights we had been overlooking for more than a week! Montmorency Falls is breathtaking. It falls some 275 feet, roughly 100 feet higher than Niagara Falls. The bus ride included a brief drive to the île d’Orleans, an agricultural island in the Saint Lawrence River just outside Québec City. Many of the local wineries are situated here, but unfortunately, this wasn’t the nature of this bus trip! On to the Basilica of Saint-Anne, who was the Virgin Mary’s mother – Jesus’ grandmother. At this magnificent church, many people have reported miraculous healings over the years. Finally we enjoyed our carriage ride with Danny, our driver, and the ever trustworthy steed, Freddie. Again, we saw things we’d been walking past without noticing. It was a charming and relaxing way to spend our Sunday morning.
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Other points of interest this week: a visit to J.A. Moisan, the oldest continuously operating grocery store in North America. They’ve been supplying provisions here since 1871! Across the street is the Musée du Chocolat. It’s small, but admission is free, and who doesn’t love a museum about chocolate?! We also enjoyed many fantastic meals, and the wine to go with them! In addition, I found a delicious, Québécois gin. Here’s what I thought of the week’s libations.
Ormarine Picpoul de Pinet Les Pins de Camille 2015
Beautiful golden color. Aromas of Meyer lemon and grapefruit. Flavors of lemon, grapefruit, and a hint of tangerine. The acidity is bright and lively. When cold, it starts fairly light body, but as it warms it develops a richer feel. Everyone says to pair this with fish, but it was delightful with our lemon-rosemary chicken.
4.5 stars (92-94 points)
SAQ Store, $14.50 CAD (approx. $11.24 USD)
Ravenswood Vintners Blend Old Vine Zinfandel 2013
Sometimes when you’re on holiday, you just want familiar. Something that tastes like home. For us, Zinfandel is comfort food. Here in Quebec, the SAQ store doesn’t have a big selection of Cali Zinfandel, but there is was: Ravenswood. Ubiquitous in NorCal restaurants.
Brick red color. Inviting aromas of blackberry and spice. Flavors of blackberry, cherry, fig, clove, and black pepper. Medium body, and smooth tannins. Simple, but comfort food. Basic, but just what we needed!
3.5 stars (85-87 points)
SAQ Store, $18.50 CAD (approx. $14.37 USD – yes, I know that’s almost double what I’d pay in the states, but you can’t put a price on your wife’s happiness.)
Ktima Foundi Xinomavro Dry Red 2013
Recommended by our server to pair with black pudding. Excellent pick! Ruby red with aromas and flavors of raspberry, red currant, and just a bit of oak. Fruit forward but dry, with very mild tannins and light acidity. Smooth drinking and complemented the rich flavor of the dish.
4.0 stars (88-91 points)
Restaurant L’Echaudé, $12 CAD per glass (approx. $9.37 USD)
Gin Thuya, Dry Gin, Distillerie Fils du Roy, Inc.
I like to try local products when I travel. I asked a sales associate for some assistance in finding a good, local gin suitable for a G&T or a Gin Rickey. This was one of two he immediately recommended. I’m a little choosey with my gin, so I asked about the style and flavor. He said Gin Thuya is definitely a dry gin with a juniper base, but beyond that it has some floral and savory notes. He said, in his French accent (we’re in French-Canada after all) that there isn’t really a word he can think of to translate from French. The best he could say is that it tastes like the seashore. Well, who doesn’t love a day at the seashore? Sold.
You know what, he’s right. It’s hard to describe the flavor. Almost a mild umami/earthy taste, but with a slight saline quality. Seashore! Quite delicious and refreshing, especially with a squirt of lemon and topped with tonic water. A perfect quaff on a hot Québec afternoon!
“Gin Thuya is a gin that is not shy. Juniper is the dominant ingredient and the second ingredient in importance is coriander. If you mix a volume of water against a volume of gin, you are sure to appreciate the flavor.
Gin Thuya earned a double gold medal at the “San Francisco World Spirits Competition” in March 2013. This is the highest honor available on the planet is currently in the industry. Gin Thuya recently won a gold medal at the “International Spirits Challenge” in London UK “
“Made entirely with natural ingredients, Thuya gin is flavoured with young cedar shoots freshly harvested in Saint-Arsène, Quebec. First distillery in Acadia, Distillerie Fils du Roy uses production methods that result in a perfectly balanced gin with fully preserved aromas. Savour it with a splash of water or in a wide variety of cocktails.”
4.0 stars (88-91 points)
SAQ Store, $39.25 CAD (approx. $30.66 USD)
During week 3 our daughter and grandson will be joining us! More fun awaits!
Our first week in Ville de Québec has drawn to a close. Fortunately, we still have a few more weeks to enjoy this enchanting city! There is so much to see and do here, and it is very interesting learning about North American history from both a Canadian and a French perspective. The food has been outstanding! We’ve saved money by hitting the Super Marché for groceries and dining in for many meals, but we’ve enjoyed a number of fine restaurant meals, as well. I’ve been surprised by the culinary diversity. Beyond the expected French cuisine, there are several Irish pubs, Italian Ristorantes, Chinese, Greek, and even a few Mexican cantinas. Our first full day here, we stopped for lunch at one of the Irish pubs, were I had an Irish-Canadian fusion of a pulled-pork sandwich over poutine, all smothered with a whiskey gravy. It was decadently delicious! Another day I had the best French onion soup I’ve ever tasted – savory and light; not over-salted like so many I’ve had in the U.S. Perhaps the topper of the week, however, was last night’s Duck Confit Burger! Yum! Tender chunks of duck, with shredded pickled beets, topped with a soft poppy seed bun, with an enormous side of fries. It’s all I’d hoped it would be!
Pulled Pork Poutine with Whiskey Gravy
French Onion Soup
The Famous Duck Confit Burger!
After a bit of a rocky start in the wine department, we enjoyed a Québécois wine that I found at the local farmer’s market, as well as some amazing ice wines and ciders. I also braved a sample of a locally produced tomato wine. Yes, tomato wine. In addition, between restaurants and the SAQ store down the street, we’ve taken advantage of the huge selection of fine French wines. Not unlike many states in the U.S., wine and liquor sales in Québec are regulated by the government liquor board. Although they do sell wine in grocery stores, frankly it’s not anything you want to drink. For the good stuff, you must head to the local SAQ (Société des alcools du Québec) store. Nevertheless, they do have a wide selection, and with the favorable U.S. exchange rate, the prices are pretty reasonable. I reviewed the Québec red wine in my earlier post, Destination: Québec City. Here’s what else we drank during Québec City, Week 1:
Willm Alsace Réserve Pinot Gris 2015
Rich, golden color in the glass. There are aromas and flavors of honeysuckle, ripe apricot and peach, and a hint of elderflower on the finish. Light and tasty, with mild acidity making it a great evening sipper.
Paired well with dinner of Roasted Chicken Thighs and Gold Potatoes.
4.0 Stars (88-91 points)
SAQ Store, $17.80 CAD (approx. $13.93 USD)
Château Eugénie Chateau Eugenie Tradition Cahors 2012
Dry and medium bodied. Raspberry and red currant, with fresh acidity. Finish is red fruit with a hint of licorice spice. Great with my Croque Monsieur and my wife’s Burger la Parisian.
4.5 Stars (92-94 points)
Chez Jules, $20 CAD for a 375 ml carafe (approx. $15.58 USD)
Albert Bichot Chablis 2014
Light straw color. Initial aromas of green apple and pineapple. Very well balanced, with medium mouthfeel and bright acidity. No one flavor dominates, but is a blend of pineapple, white grapefruit, lemon, and pear. These flavors linger with a zesty and invigorating finish.
A nice complement to a ground turkey casserole and green salad.
4.0 Stars (88-91 points)
SAQ Store, $22.50 CAD (approx.. $17.60 USD)
Note: This was actually my first Chablis. We are not big Chardonnay fans, but we have recently been enjoying unoaked Chardonnay, in the Chablis style. We are now big fans of Chablis!
Vignoble Le Nordet Vendanges Oubliées En Rosé 2012
Ice Wine from a Québec producer. Delightful! Rich dessert wine with ample sweetness, and light raspberry and strawberry notes. Beautiful pink color, and pleasant mouthfeel.
4.0 Stars (88-91 points)
Marché Du Vieux-Port Farmer’s Market, $29 CAD for a 200 ml bottle (approx. $22.60 USD)
Domaine de la Bergerie Yves Guégniard La Cerisaie 2014 (Anjou)
Deep purple color. Black currant and blackberry, with woody notes. Quite dry, with good acidity for food pairing. Smoky-berry finish. A very nice accompaniment to my duck confit burger.
3.5 Stars (85-87 points)
Chez Victor, $9.75 CAD per glass (approx. $7.60 USD)
And finally, the moment you’ve been waiting for! Tomato Wine!
Omerto Vin Apéritif de Tomate
Tomato wine. Yup. Wine made from tomatoes. Very much like sake in that it is bone dry and has a neutral flavor, with just a hint of sweetness and vegetal notes. 16% ABV. This was drier Sec style. They also make a Demi-Sec, as well as one aged in acacia barrels and one in cherry and chestnut barrels. I only tasted the Sec. Interesting to try, but not something I’d drink often.
3.0 Stars (82-84 points)
Marché Du Vieux-Port Farmer’s Market, $24 CAD (approx. $18.71 USD)
There’s more to come in the next few weeks! Stay tuned!
My wife and I have safely arrived in Quebec City, where we will be spending the next 30 days. We rented a condo in the Old City, so we can live like the locals. We are walking distance to several cafés and restaurants, and the famous historical sites in the city. In fact, the 400+ year old fortification wall is just out our back door!
Through those trees, is the City Wall.
We’ve only just begun to explore, but already we are taken with the beauty, charm, and history of this French-Canadian city.
Neither my wife nor I speak French well enough to blend in seamlessly. I only know enough to embarrass myself. (Really.) Fortunately, most everyone here is bilingual, and can converse in English just as well as French. This is especially true in the tourist areas and those working in hospitality. We did run into a couple of folks at a neighborhood supermarket who didn’t speak English, but they were able to summon help from a coworker in the store.
Speaking of the neighborhood supermarket…if you are a wine lover, and I assume you are if you are reading this Wine Blog, please accept some advice and learn from my mistake blunder. Do not buy wine when you are suffering from jet lag and are seriously sleep deprived. Seriously, don’t do it. You see, since we are renting a condo, we needed to find a supermarket and stock up on provisions for our stay. We’ll be cooking in more than eating out, because, money. We Googled a nearby grocery store and headed out. I had an idea where the local wine shop was located, but we were tired and just wanted to pick up a bottle for the first night. So I quickly browsed the very small wine section and grabbed the first bottle I saw that said it was from Canada. (When in Rome, and all that!) It was an $8.50 bottle, so I didn’t have great expectations, but I figured it’d be OK. It wasn’t until I got back to the condo that it dawned on me that there was no vintage listed on this 750 ml bottle. Panic started to set in. I also remembered that at the current exchange rate, that $8.50 CAD was about $6.70 USD. Uh-oh. A closer look at the label revealed nothing about what was inside, other than some fruity adjectives; no varietals listed. In a cold sweat, I logged into Vivino, only to discover, to my dismay, that this wine carried an average rating of 2.1 stars. The first review I read said “water tastes better.” I looked at the label again, and realized it said “Blended in Canada.” So I have absolutely no idea where this wine is from! This is nothing more than jug wine in a 750 ml bottle! Well, never up, never out, so I pulled the (synthetic) cork. It definitely had some nice, fruity aromas of raspberry and strawberry. Beyond that, it tasted sort of like a juice box, with a Sweet-Tart candy finish. It was drinkable, but definitely not what I’m used to enjoying. I rated it 2 stars. So again, learn from my mistakes. Don’t buy wine under the influence of jet lag; but if you must, don’t cheap out.
My wife, travel planner extraordinaire, found us a fantastic little condo through VRBO, in an historic building near the Vieux-Port. When we arrived, the owner gave us a little history, and told us the building has been in the family since the 1860’s, when her great-great-grandfather arrived from Ireland to work on the docks. The condo is a mere block away from the Marché du Vieux-Port, an indoor farmer’s market overlooking the port.
As luck good-planning-on-my-wife’s-part would have it, in addition to the fresh produce, flowers, fresh cheese, fresh seafood, large Asian food section, a Crêperie, and all things maple syrup, the Marché has at least six vendors selling wine, vin de glace (ice wine), cídre de glace, and other delights; all locally produced!
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There’s also a vendor advertising more than 300 local craft beers, if that’s your preference. Every stall I visited was staffed by very friendly folks, all of whom offered tastes of pretty much anything on the bar (and many who posed for pictures!) As I expected, actual, genuine Québécois wine is of high quality and pretty tasty! Made from locally grown grapes (many of them hybrids), like Vidal, Ste-Croix, De Chaunac, Frontenac, and Baco Noir, these wines are rich and earthy, with a unique terroir adding to the flavor. The cooler climate also means the wines are lower in alcohol than their southern counterparts; typically 11-12% ABV, from what I saw. They are also higher in acidity than many New World wines, which makes them great with food.
After several tastes, I selected the Domaine de Lavoie Tourelle 2014, a red blend of De Chaunac and Ste-Croix grapes.
Deep purple color. Aromas of ripe blackberry and black currant. Flavors of blackberry, bramble, black currant, and earthy spice. The tannins are smooth and soft, and there is food friendly acidity – more so than most New World wines. Made with local varietals, De Chaunac and Ste-Croix. The finish is medium, with earthy, dark berry notes.
$16 CAD, approx $12.70 USD at today’s exchange rate.
3.5 Hearts (85-87 points)
This was my first Canadian/Québécois wine. I look forward to exploring others over the next month. This is just the first of what I intend to be many posts from the Ville de Québec. Santé!
This is the first review in my Judgment of Paris wines series. I came up with the ridiculous idea of sampling recent vintages of each of the 10 reds and 10 whites represented in the famed blind tasting of 1976. This will probably take a couple of years to complete, but they say it’s good to have goals, right?
Freemark Abbey was one of 11 wineries representing Californian wine at the 1976 blind tasting event. In addition, Freemark Abbey has the distinction of being the only producer to have wines represented in both the reds (Cabernet Sauvignon/Bordeaux) and whites (Chardonnay/White Burgundy) competitions. The wines entered were hand-selected by the organizer, Steven Spurrier. Each of the wines chosen were considered the best of the best, and was selected over hundreds of others. So even though the Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon placed 10th out of 10 entries, it’s still a very impressive showing.
Photo Credit: FreemarkAbbey.com
Freemark Abbey has no connection to nuns or monks, or any religious institutions for that matter. Nevertheless, the winery has an intriguing past, with many notable mileposts. Freemark Abbey Winery’s history dates back to 1886, when Josephine Tychson, a Victorian widow, built a redwood cellar on the site, becoming the first female winemaker in the Napa Valley. 12 years later, in 1898, a friend of Ms. Tychson named Antonio Forni bought the winery. He renamed it Lombarda Cellars in honor of the Italian town of his birth. Forni constructed the winery building which still stands today. The current name came about in 1939, when three southern California businessmen bought the winery. Charles Freeman, Marquand Foster, and Albert “Abbey” Ahern combined their names to form Freemark Abbey. Of course the role Freemark Abbey had in the 1976 Judgment of Paris, and the impact that event had on the Napa Valley, remains one of the winery’s crowning moments.
Here’s my review of this historic Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon:
I decanted the wine for a little over an hour. Deep, inky purple color. Aromas of ripe blackberry, Marionberry, and cassis, with soft oak. As the wine opened up, the luscious aromas filled the room, and some light violet scent emerges. On to the tasting! This is a rich, full-bodied wine. There are flavors of blackberry, cassis, black plum, mild oak, and pepper. The tannins are soft and smooth. The berry and oak flavors continue into the medium-long finish, with the addition of some baking spice and dark chocolate. There is also a little lingering alcohol on the finish. Paired well with grilled ribeye and roasted rosemary potatoes.
4.0 Stars (88-91 points)
Total Wine & More: $32.99
So, one down, 19 to go! Now it’s on to the next one. Wish me luck!
It was 40 years ago this week that Steven Spurrier, a British wine merchant living in Paris, held a wine tasting event, the results of which shocked the wine world. Spurrier gathered nine expert judges, all of them French, for a head-to-head blind tasting of the best of Bordeaux and Burgundy against relatively unknown wines from California. Spurrier and an associate, American Patricia Gallagher also participated in tasting and judging the wines. At the time, the commonly held belief was that French wines were the standard of quality, and anything else was inferior. The tasting was originally intended to simply generate publicity for Spurrier’s wine shop and school. Therefore, there was not a lot of outside interest in it, and only one journalist attended the event; George M. Taber, from Time Magazine (Taber, 2005).
Photo Credit: Wikipedia
There were two separate competitions: White Burgundy vs. California Chardonnay, and Red Bordeaux vs. California Cabernet Sauvignon. In each category, there were four French wines, and six from California. The outcome is now well known – a California wine won top honors in both categories. The event changed the landscape of the Napa Valley, figuratively and literally. Taber later compiled the experience in his book: Judgment of Paris: California vs. France and the Historic 1976 Tasting that Revolutionized Wine (Taber, 2005). It is a fascinating and educational account, not only of the tasting event, but also of the history of wine in France and the Napa region. The tasting was also dramatized in the movie Bottle Shock in 2008. It’s worth seeing if you haven’t, but keep in mind this is a motion picture dramatization, complete with editorial and creative license. If you want to really explore and learn about the history, I recommend reading the book!
Photo Credit: Amazon.com
Below are the results of the famous 1976 tastings, in order of their ranking:
White
Chateau Montelena, 1973, Napa
Meursault Charmes Roulot, 1973, Burgundy
Chalone Vineyard, 1974, Monterey County
Spring Mountain, 1973, Napa
Beaune Clos des Mouches Joseph Drophin, 1973, Burgundy
Freemark Abbey Winery, 1972, Napa
Bâtard-Montrachet Ramonet-Prudhon, 1973, Burgundy
Domaine LeFlaive, 1972, Burgundy
Veedercrest Vineyards, 1972, Napa
David Bruce Winery, 1973, Santa Cruz Mountains
Red
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, 1973, Napa
Château Mouton Rothschild, 1970, Bordeaux
Château Haut-Brion, 1970, Bordeaux
Château Montrose, 1970, Bordeaux
Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello, 1971, Santa Cruz Mountains
Château Léoville-Las-Cases, 1971, Bordeaux
Mayacamas Vineyards, 1971, Napa
Clos Du Val Winery, 1972, Napa
Heitz Cellars Martha’s Vineyard, 1970, Napa
Freemark Abbey Winery, 1969, Napa
Among my more cockamamie ideas, it occurred to me that it might be fun to taste each of the wines featured in the Judgment of Paris. Of course, I’ll have to purchase current vintages, but so be it. Many of the châteaux and wineries represented in the competition continue to produce stellar wines, and their prices and scarcity reflect the prestige. Others have remained more affordable and are readily available. In 2004, Chalone Vineyards was purchased by global conglomerate Diageo, which took the brand in the direction of mass-produced table wine; neglecting its historic importance. Fortunately, earlier this year the winery was purchased from Diageo by Foley Family Wines. Spokesman Bill Foley says that Foley Family Wines will work to restore the estate’s reputation and highlight its place in history (Worobiec, 2016).
As much as I’d like to, I won’t be able to recreate the blind tasting, but instead will have to purchase and sample the wines individually over several months. This may prove to be an insurmountable challenge, simply due to the availability (or lack thereof) and cost of some of the famous French wines. Nevertheless, other than those that are clearly out of my range (Château Moutin-Rothschild, for as much as $1,100 for recent vintages, comes to mind) I am determined to seek out and taste them all! Watch for reviews coming soon!
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Works Cited
Taber, G. M. (2005). Judgment of Paris: California vs. France and the Historic 1976 Paris Tasting that Revolutionized Wine. New York: Scribner.
Your partner experiences something completely different. Her Bordeaux fantasy involves a Parisian bistro; an outdoor table on the sidewalk, the bustle of the people passing by; the charming waiter with his attentive gaze, ready to refill the glass at a moment’s notice; and the delightful meal with which to enjoy the wine. Solitude.
Yet your partner has been whisked away to a cool mountain lake; on the porch of a cabin overlooking the rippling water. Hungry trout beckon, but rising to grab the fishing pole would merely disrupt the moment. Solitude.
Appetite for Wine 